Problems / Dealer ServiceIf you are having problems with your Dodge Nitro and want to discuss it, please do so in here. If you need to talk about service that you may need or have received from a dealership, please do so in here.
First post here. Son has a 2007 Dodge Nitro and loves the vehicle. It has about 80,000 miles and he thinks he is experiencing a problem(s) under hard acceleration.
First thought was tranny is slipping but after a few more tests and some web search it sounds like similar problems other have discussed - pulsing between 2nd and 3rd gear hard shifts.
Car is going to a local auto repair where they claim they have some equipment that will diagnose problems. If not, it will go to the dealer knowing it may cost a bunch regardless.
Is there anything anyone can share that might hint to the problem? Tune-up? Tranny? Fuel?
Welcome to the forum. My Nitro is still too new for me to be of any help, but I would check the service history to see when the transmission was last flushed and serviced. Good luck.
2007 Dodge Nitro Transmission Control Module (TCM) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM) TSBs
TSB Number: 1800208 NHTSA Number: 10024056 TSB Date: January 10, 2008 Date Added to File: March 4, 2008
Failing Component:
Power Train:Automatic Transmission:Control Module (Tcm, Pcm)
Summary:
Flash: rough idle and drop in engine speed upon gear engagement after cold start.
2007 Dodge Nitro Torque Converter TSBs
TSB Number: 2101207 NHTSA Number: 10022416 TSB Date: July 17, 2007 Date Added to File: August 13, 2007
Failing Component:
Power Train:Automatic Transmission:Torque Converter
Summary:
MIL illumination with diagnostic trouble code P0741- torque converter clutch circuit performance.
2007 Dodge Nitro Automatic Transmission TSBs
1 TSB Number: 0803006 NHTSA Number: 10021239 TSB Date: August 25, 2006 Date Added to File: March 23, 2007
Failing Component:
Power Train:Automatic Transmission
Summary:
Powertrain control module initialization.
Here are some and I suspect there are more. Most involved only the 3.7 engine trans not the R/T 4.0 engine/trans combination.
Good Luck and let us know what was done to correct your issues to help others.
__________________
Rick
Nitro Year: 2007 (1 of 113,000 sold)
Nitro Model: R/T 4X4 Stone White
CAT-BACK Exhaust, CAI, Projector Head Lamps
Fully-Equipped w/all factory options
Thanks for the feedback. Is there any specific specs - like Mercon - for tranny fluid? Only ID ive seen was Mopar ??? Id like to avoid the mfg specifics if possible and safe.
Anything from Advanced Auto Parts or Walmart that is safe to use?
The problem with doing this yourself is that there is no dipstick. I think that Mopar recommends theirs for a reason. I would cross reference the ones you metioned to make sure that they are Mopar compatible. Also, you would need the flush to get all of the old fluid out of the torque converter. Just draining does not accomplish this.
Thanks again. I am familiar with the displacement fluid changer as Ive seen it used on my Ford F250 diesel. They are pretty slick and certainly reduce waste and mess.
How would one check the tranny fluid level other than replacing the fluid? Seems it would only refill to the low level. Doesnt seem practical.
They designed it so you can't mess with it ..and to check the fluid you need to bring it in to them ...this is why they are able to offer the 100k power tran warnnty ...once you mess with it it will void it ... They test all tans fluid in the event of a issue so no way around it
Went to the local auto shop and they connected to a diagnostics machine. Everything seemed good but there was a loose head bolt under the coil pack. They tightened it and checked the others.
After 1 day while driving normal the vehicle seemed like it was starving, seemed like it wanted to die. This went on for a few seconds, cleared and seems ok now. It still shutters under hard acceleration.
We are thinking fuel. Where to look?
Possibly dirty injectors? They checked out OK on the diagnostics.
Can a coil pack be going bad and still work? Coils getting weak? The plugs were replaced when the inspection was performed.
It is really difficult to troubleshoot when it doesnt throw a code, but doesnt perform as you would expect.
We sure dont want to just keep guessing or have the shop/dealer do the same.
If the injectors are dirty, they wont throw the correct spray pattern. Buy the best injector cleaner you can find, and try it. As for the coil paks, the are electronic and IMHO, electronics either work, or don't, unless there is an intermittent short - something heats up, opens (shorts) - stops working, cools off (closes) - starts working again - this process can be milliseconds or minutes!
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