Dodge Nitro: Engine Problems / Code Errors - Page 3 - Dodge Nitro Forum
Problems / Dealer Service If you are having problems with your Dodge Nitro and want to discuss it, please do so in here. If you need to talk about service that you may need or have received from a dealership, please do so in here.

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post #21 of 135 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 04:23 AM
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I feel your pain. It sucks when you have to deal with a dealer like this. It's no wonder that dealers get a bad wrap when this stuff goes on. I remember that someone on the jeepcommander forum had issues with a dealer in your area. I guss I am one of the lucky ones with a dealer I can trust. Good luck in whatever you do. Age and sex should not matter in any business transaction, but that is the way this country runs!






2011 Nitro Heat 4x4: Bright Silver Metallic, Dark Slate Gray; Customer Preferred Package 24C; Trailer Tow Group; Hood-to-Fender Stripes; Navus 2; Uconnect.
MODS: Sunroof; S/S Nerf Bars; Mopar CAI, Pedal Kit, Chrome Rear License Plate Brow, Chrome Exterior Package, Production Style Cross Bars, Deluxe Molded Splash Guards, Cargo Security Cover, Door Sills & 3.7L Emblem; Media Center 430; Kicker Speakers, Sub and Amps; Carbon Fiber Dash Kits; Heated Katzkin Leather.
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post #22 of 135 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 03:58 PM
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MIL light on-n-off

I have a 2008 Nitro R/T with the 4.0L engine. I had 40,000 miles of relatively problem free use (OK, the driver side front seat lower trim, with the power seat controls, keeps falling off) before I retired.
I moved out of the US to Panama City, Panama and within 3 months the MIL light started to come on. It would be there for a week, then it would clear by itself. A few days later it comes back; usually 15 seconds after a hot restart. I've talked to some other Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep owners who have the same experience.
I never took it to a dealer, the only Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealer is a dual with M-B; all the shop prices are the same - EXPENSIVE! Without access to any readout device, if you say this is a suspected misfire problem then I will ignore it as a poor fuel avaiability issue. Thanks for the information.
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post #23 of 135 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Buglione View Post
I have a 2008 Nitro R/T with the 4.0L engine. I had 40,000 miles of relatively problem free use (OK, the driver side front seat lower trim, with the power seat controls, keeps falling off) before I retired.
I moved out of the US to Panama City, Panama and within 3 months the MIL light started to come on. It would be there for a week, then it would clear by itself. A few days later it comes back; usually 15 seconds after a hot restart. I've talked to some other Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep owners who have the same experience.
I never took it to a dealer, the only Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealer is a dual with M-B; all the shop prices are the same - EXPENSIVE! Without access to any readout device, if you say this is a suspected misfire problem then I will ignore it as a poor fuel avaiability issue. Thanks for the information.

Welcome to the forum. What's it like to live in Panama?






2011 Nitro Heat 4x4: Bright Silver Metallic, Dark Slate Gray; Customer Preferred Package 24C; Trailer Tow Group; Hood-to-Fender Stripes; Navus 2; Uconnect.
MODS: Sunroof; S/S Nerf Bars; Mopar CAI, Pedal Kit, Chrome Rear License Plate Brow, Chrome Exterior Package, Production Style Cross Bars, Deluxe Molded Splash Guards, Cargo Security Cover, Door Sills & 3.7L Emblem; Media Center 430; Kicker Speakers, Sub and Amps; Carbon Fiber Dash Kits; Heated Katzkin Leather.
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post #24 of 135 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 04:38 PM
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It's hot and HUMID - LOL. My wife is from Panama so she has no problem. Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealers down here are a joke! I brought my NITRO from the USA down here; about $600 to ship.
The roads down here leave a lot to be desired - they don't know how to build them, maintain them, or fix them when they break.
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post #25 of 135 (permalink) Old 12-03-2012, 05:20 PM
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I went through the canal, after a sail completely around South America, when I was in the Navy - west to east. Maybe, one day I'll get to visit again!






2011 Nitro Heat 4x4: Bright Silver Metallic, Dark Slate Gray; Customer Preferred Package 24C; Trailer Tow Group; Hood-to-Fender Stripes; Navus 2; Uconnect.
MODS: Sunroof; S/S Nerf Bars; Mopar CAI, Pedal Kit, Chrome Rear License Plate Brow, Chrome Exterior Package, Production Style Cross Bars, Deluxe Molded Splash Guards, Cargo Security Cover, Door Sills & 3.7L Emblem; Media Center 430; Kicker Speakers, Sub and Amps; Carbon Fiber Dash Kits; Heated Katzkin Leather.
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post #26 of 135 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 05:28 PM
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Nitro stalling, rough idle and ticking!!! Please help

I'm trying repair my girlfriends dodge nitro. It's a 2008 SXT with the 3.7L V6. She went to work and and everything was fine when she got off a few hours later it wouldn't start, it will try and fire and if it does start it will idle VERY irraticly and go to about 500rpm and shut off. There is also a ticking noise that seems to be coming from somewhere on the passenger side of the engine. It must be in the motor because it gets worse with RPM.
I replaced all 6 spark plugs. The ones that were in there were BLACK and dry. I thought maybe that could be my problem, so I put new spark plugs in. Fired it up, and still would barely start and the same problems were there.
I hooked up my OBDII scanner and got a P0300 code which is multiple cylinder misfire. I cleared that code and started it and ran it until the engine light came on again. This time I got a P0301 so replaced that coil pack. No change in rough idle and engine shutting down unless its being revved and the ticking is still there. I took the coil packs off and found that my brand new spark plugs were BLACK! And all I had done was run the vehicle for a few minutes. I removed all the spark plugs and cleaned them off and put sea foam in the cylinder and tried to flush out the carbon. Which really didn't work.
So I went and got 5 gallons of premium gas and put it in the tank with the little less than a quarter tank that was already in there thinking it was maybe bad gas. I mixed in fuel system treatment to hopefully clear anything that may be in the fuel lines or injectors. I started and ran the vehicle and still the same issues. I'm at my wits end and I don't know what to do. If anyone has any information please help me out! The car won't even drive because it idles so rough and stalls if you take you foot off the gas
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post #27 of 135 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 12:25 AM Thread Starter
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I was thinking about gas too and would try some dry-gas additive. The problem with this type of issue I have found is that yes electrical and gas have many-times the same results. Gas line filter replacement, since it was low on gas anyway? Maybe someone else has the answer? Good luck and let us know what you find. Thanks for the post and hopefully we can help.

Rick

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post #28 of 135 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 07:43 AM
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Thanks for the help I did put TECHRON in along with the 5 gallons of gas of fresh gas I added. I'm going to check that fuel filter now.
As for the ticking does anyone know what that could be?
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post #29 of 135 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 07:49 AM
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The fuel filter is inside the gas tank........ What are the chances that that's my problem? I'm not looking forward to having to drop the tank.
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post #30 of 135 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 02:47 PM
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It could be the crank position sensor - it does know when to actually fire the cylinders. The ticking is inherent to the 3.7. Sometimes, I feel as though I am driving a diesel.






2011 Nitro Heat 4x4: Bright Silver Metallic, Dark Slate Gray; Customer Preferred Package 24C; Trailer Tow Group; Hood-to-Fender Stripes; Navus 2; Uconnect.
MODS: Sunroof; S/S Nerf Bars; Mopar CAI, Pedal Kit, Chrome Rear License Plate Brow, Chrome Exterior Package, Production Style Cross Bars, Deluxe Molded Splash Guards, Cargo Security Cover, Door Sills & 3.7L Emblem; Media Center 430; Kicker Speakers, Sub and Amps; Carbon Fiber Dash Kits; Heated Katzkin Leather.
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