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Thanks again. I am familiar with the displacement fluid changer as Ive seen it used on my Ford F250 diesel. They are pretty slick and certainly reduce waste and mess.

How would one check the tranny fluid level other than replacing the fluid? Seems it would only refill to the low level. Doesnt seem practical.
 

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They designed it so you can't mess with it ..and to check the fluid you need to bring it in to them ...this is why they are able to offer the 100k power tran warnnty ...once you mess with it it will void it ... They test all tans fluid in the event of a issue so no way around it
 

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Went to the local auto shop and they connected to a diagnostics machine. Everything seemed good but there was a loose head bolt under the coil pack. They tightened it and checked the others.

After 1 day while driving normal the vehicle seemed like it was starving, seemed like it wanted to die. This went on for a few seconds, cleared and seems ok now. It still shutters under hard acceleration.

We are thinking fuel. Where to look?
Possibly dirty injectors? They checked out OK on the diagnostics.

Can a coil pack be going bad and still work? Coils getting weak? The plugs were replaced when the inspection was performed.

It is really difficult to troubleshoot when it doesnt throw a code, but doesnt perform as you would expect.

We sure dont want to just keep guessing or have the shop/dealer do the same.

Suggestions?
 

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If the injectors are dirty, they wont throw the correct spray pattern. Buy the best injector cleaner you can find, and try it. As for the coil paks, the are electronic and IMHO, electronics either work, or don't, unless there is an intermittent short - something heats up, opens (shorts) - stops working, cools off (closes) - starts working again - this process can be milliseconds or minutes!

:cool:
 

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Well one thing I learned about car repairs and issues working at as a Parts Manager for a Chrysler Dealership, they usually have seen the same issue before, and know where exactly to look and what is needed to solve ANY issue on the vehicles they sell and service. Sure they are more expensive (may not be in the long run however) but usually back their repairs 100% whereas Auto Repair Service Centers repair ALL types of vehicles and may not have seen the same issue. It's like taking a Ford into a Chrysler dealership for a simple repair. They usually don't know what to do or have the sources or parts to perform the same as a Ford dealership, that repair ONLY Ford vehicles.

Still think a Chrysler/Dodge Dealership would know how to address this issue if you did not take it to one.

Just my take...

Good Luck
 

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Check air box filter and all intake points and also check your cats ...my buddy had a issue like that and all it was...was a lil animal made a nest in his air box
 

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Second Gear: Check used Nitro for transmission issues

August 21, 2012

Second Gear: Check used Nitro for transmission issues



Nitro brought Dodge’s presence to the utility vehicle scene occupied by models like the Nissan Rogue and Hyundai Santa Fe.

Driver-selectable four-wheel drive, plenty of ground clearance and a solid rear axle made this a family-ready ute that could handle towing and off-road use with ease.

Trim levels started with SE for a ‘basic’ Nitro, with SXT, SLT and R/T filling the model range from less to more loaded.

Common Issues

Be sure to “feel” for any signs of transmission slippage or a “shudder” at lower speeds and under light loads —which could indicate a problem with the transmission or torque converter, or the computer that controls them.

If the transmission exhibits any of these symptoms, be sure to have it checked. Some owners have reported transmission or torque converter replacement under warranty.

Have a mechanic inspect your candidate for signs of oil leakage — particularly around the rear of the oil pan, and at the rear differential. Be sure any leaks are remedied ahead of your purchase.

Finally, check the ceiling liner and front footwells for signs of moisture that could be caused by a leaky sunroof, if equipped.

Engine

Power came from a 3.7-litre, 210-horsepower V6, or a 4-litre V6 with up to 260 horsepower. Manual and automatic transmissions were available.

What Owners Like

Nitro owners rate ride, handling, flexibility, confidence, and all-season traction highly. The upgraded stereo is well liked, as is the styling and overall “bang for the buck” where feature content is concerned.

What Owners Dislike

Common complaints include limited footwell space, limited headroom for taller drivers, and a long reach for the gear shifter.

Verdict

Styling, driving dynamics and a high degree of capability and utility are the largest draws to the Nitro as a used buy. Seek the advice and approval of a trained Dodge mechanic ahead of your purchase.

SOURCE
 

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Call the coppers! Someone stole my Nitro!

:eek:
 

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Transmission or Normal?

Hello Everyone, Last weekend I picked up a new to me 2011 Shock. After lots of searching on the internet, I finally found one a few hours from me.

It had just under 41K miles on it and the price was great. It was a CPO vehicle and the dealership said all services were up to date. Oil looked brand new, but as you guys already know, no way to check tranny fluid. I drove it home that day.

A few things I noticed that day and over the past week of driving had me a bit concerned, so wanted to see if there might be an issue or if this is just normal operation on the Nitro. Most of my searching on this forum and from Google, has talked about some of these issues on the earlier model years and they claim the issues were resolved for the later model years.

On the way home from the dealership, it seemed like the vehicle was surging while at a constant speed on the interstate. It did not seem to fluctuate in rpms or speed as it was doing it. I thought maybe it had to do with the stiffer suspension and the shorter wheel base reacting to the road I was driving on, because when I got to smoother sections of the interstate, it seems to go away.

The other thing I have noticed is that when I let off the gas, it engine brakes pretty hard. Sometimes it will downshift when I let off the gas and it does it, and sometimes I can't tell if it downshifted when it does it.

When accelerating at medium throttle, it wants to shift from second to third very fast. The rpms drop down and it feels boggy being in such a high gear for the speed.

I have not done any WOT runs with it yet as I was bit worried how the transmission seems to be acting and didn't want to cause a more severe problem by beating on it.

So before I head off to the dealer, I wanted to see if some of these were normal operating procedure for this vehicle. I know that it takes a bit of learning how different vehicles drive, so want to make sure that I'm not over thinking it and comparing it to how my other vehicles drive.

Thanks

Shawn
 

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Welcome! You have done your homework and I would be surprised to hear that problems that were rampant on some early Nitros in 2007 are to be found in your 2011 Shock. However since I see you bought it from a Dealer, take it back and explain your concerns now. Again depending what vehicle you had before, your Nitro may just drive different than you are accustom too. Good Luck and let us know what happens.
 

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Well that is one of my concerns. The dealer I bought it from is several hours away. So taking it back up there just to hear that its normal operation would be a waste.

Even if something is wrong, not sure how they could make a comparison as to properly working.

If there are no CEL's, most dealers usually give ya the "bring it back if it gets worse or throws a code" line.

I'm supposed to get the warranty paperwork in the mail in a few weeks. I guess I will wait till that shows up and take it to my local dealer.

Thanks

Shawn
 

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Sound to me like your CPU is getting know you. I'd suggest spending two or three days letting your onboard computer get to know your driving style and adjusting to you. A couple of your concerns I experienced on my previously used vehicle and they went away. What is CPO?
 

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Thanks John,

I thought it might be the adaptives with the 2-3 early shift. I will see if it conforms to my driving style a bit as time goes on. Maybe once the snow melts, I will see if I can trace down which fuse holds adaptive memory and reset it.

CPO is for Certified Pre Owned. So it was supposed to have gone through a lengthy inspection of the entire vehicle.

Shawn
 

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Sound to me like your CPU is getting know you. I'd suggest spending two or three days letting your onboard computer get to know your driving style and adjusting to you. A couple of your concerns I experienced on my previously used vehicle and they went away. What is CPO?
Welcome to the forum.

If you want to speed up the process of the CPU learning your driving habits, disconnect the negative terminal of your battery, and let it sit for ten minutes or so. This action will purge any memory stored; it is like restarting a computer. Then, see if the perceived issues go away.

As far as the engine braking, it could be that the transmission is unlocking prematurely which could feel like an engine brake. As far as the quick shifts between second and third with a medium throttle, I think that this was a built in design to help your truck increase mpg's.

Being a Shock, you have the 4.0 with the 5 speed auto. There was an issue with the Jeep Commander and this transmission, and the fix was for the dealer to reprogram the transmission to allow it to not lock up so early, and eliminate the surging. Again, this was done to help with mpg's but it made the trucks less pleasant to drive.

Even if it is a trek to go back to your dealer, get this documented now so that you will be covered in the future. I purchased my 2011 new and it came with a 5 year/100,000 Powertrain Warranty. I do not know if this transfers to the second owner.

Good luck, and let us know how you make out.

:cool:
 

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Thanks dhh3.

I purchased a Lifetime, unlimited mileage bumper to bumper warranty when I picked it up. They only want $2500 for it and it has a $150 deductible. I was told this was good at any dealership, so I can take it to my local dealer that I know well.

So don't have to worry about getting things documented right away. Just have to wait till all the paperwork shows up.

So you are saying the early lock up on decel was to increase mpg? I would think that would be backwards. To me, unlocking the TC on decel would allow it to "coast" so to speak and help mpg.

I will do some further research on resetting the adaptives. On my 06 Chrysler, I can simply pull fuse # 11 in the PDC to reset the adaptives. Then I don't have to reset the clock and all that other stuff that comes with a battery disconnect. Hoping the Nitro has something similar.


Shawn
 

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Thanks dhh3.
So you are saying the early lock up on decel was to increase mpg? I would think that would be backwards. To me, unlocking the TC on decel would allow it to "coast" so to speak and help mpg.
I will do some further research on resetting the adaptives. On my 06 Chrysler, I can simply pull fuse # 11 in the PDC to reset the adaptives. Then I don't have to reset the clock and all that other stuff that comes with a battery disconnect. Hoping the Nitro has something similar.
Shawn
No, on decel, it would be unlocking, which could feel like an engine brake.

Locking up prematurely could cause the engine to chug, as you described, was this was to increase mpg's. It is possible to get the transmission remapped to eliminate this feeling.

As for pulling a fuse, I am not aware of this. I have always used the negative battery terminal, and have never had to reset my clock/radio station presets, etc.

:cool:
 

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Hmm, Maybe I am thinking about this the wrong way then. My understanding of the lock up torque converter was to lock into place at specified time to act as a direct match from engine to transmission speeds. This in turned lowered rpms at cruising speeds and the torque multiplication of the converter was not needed.

Then when throttle was released, the torque converter would unlock allowing the transmission and engine to spin at different speeds. This would give the freewheel or coasting feeling. I always connected this with the same feeling as pushing in the clutch on a manual transmission vehicle to coast.

Shawn
 

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This is the way that I have always understood how it works:

Think of the locking as another gear. With the 3.7, I have a 4 speed automatic. So locking is, in essence, a 5th gear. Now, relate this to a manual, say a 4 speed. If you shift into 4th too soon, the engine will labor (chug). When it unlocks, it is like a downshift - the engine and transmission do not free wheel. So, then when it unlocks, it causes the rpm's to slightly increase, which can have the effect of an engine brake. Again, depending how smoothly all of this happens can make it appear that there could be a problem. The lock/unlock process should be smooth enough so that the only way to detect it would be to watch the tachometer.

This is getting complicated where I'm beginning to doubt myself! :eek:

:cool:
 

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nitro tranny noise

Hi everyone,I have a 2008 nitro with the 3.7 motor with a auto trans.It developed a chucking sound between the motor and tranny. This happens when it idles and goes away when revved up.Any suggestions what it could be?
 
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