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Dodge Nitro: Engine Problems / Code Errors

206K views 181 replies 24 participants last post by  rickaren 
#1 ·
When retrieving Dodge check engine light codes with an OBD II scan tool, proceed as follows:
1. Connect scan tool to the 16-pin data link connector (DLC) located near the steering column. The connector may have a removable cover.
2. Turn the ignition on.
3. Follow scan tool manufacturer's operating instructions to access the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's).


Remember, these are manufacturer specific codes only. Refer to our Generic OBD II code list for definitions on all other Dodge diagnostic trouble codes.

Manufacturer Specific Codes

P0138 HO2S12 High Voltage - Related Information

P0442 Medium EVAP Leak - Related Information

P0455 Large EVAP Leak - Related Information

P0601 Internal PCM Controller Failure- Related Information

P1105 Open Or Shorted Condition Detected In The Baro Read Solenoid Control Circuit - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1192 Inlet Air Temp. Circuit Low

P1193 Inlet Air Temp. Circuit High

P1194 Incorrect Or Irrational Performance Has Been Detected For The PWM

P1195 O2 Sensor 1/1 (Bank 1, Sensor 1) Slow During Catalyst Monitor - Read Our Article on Oxygen Sensor Codes For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1196 O2 Sensor 2/1 (Bank 2, Sensor 1) Slow During Catalyst Monitor - Read Our Article on Oxygen Sensor Codes For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1197 O2 Sensor 1/2 (Bank 1, Sensor 2) Slow During Catalyst Monitor - Read Our Article on Oxygen Sensor Codes For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1198 Radiator Temperature Sensor Voltage Too High

P1199 Radiator Temperature Sensor Voltage Too Low

P1243 Open Or Shorted Condition Detected In The Turbocharger Surge Valve Solenoid Control - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1280 Open Or Shorted Condition Detected In The Fuel System Relay Control Circuit - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1281 Engine Operating Temp Below Acceptable Range

P1282 Fuel Pump Relay Control Circuit Open Or Shorted - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code - Other Related Information

P1283 Idle Select Signal Invalid

P1284 Fuel Injection Pump Battery Voltage Out Of Range

P1285 Fuel Injection Pump Controller Always On

P1286 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Supply Voltage Too High

P1287 Fuel Injection Pump Controller Supply Voltage Low

P1288 Intake Manifold Short Runner Solenoid Circuit Open Or Shorted - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1289 Manifold Tune Valve Solenoid Circuit Open Or Shorted - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1290 CNG Fuel Pressure Too High

P1291 No Temp Rise Seen From Fuel Heaters

P1292 CNG Pressure Sensor Voltage Too High

P1293 CNG Pressure Sensor Voltage Too Low

P1294 Target Idle Not Reached

P1295 Loss Of 5 Volts To TP Sensor

P1296 Loss Of 5 Volts To MAP Sensor

P1297 No Change In MAP From Start To Run

P1298 Lean Operation At Wide Open Throttle

P1299 Vacuum Leak Found (IAC Fully Seated)

P1388 Auto Shutdown (ASD) Relay Control Circuit Open Or Shorted - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1389 No Auto Shutdown (ASD) Relay Output Voltage At PCM

P1390 Timing Belt Skipped One Tooth Or More

P1391 Intermittent Loss of CMP Or CKP

P1398 PCM Is Unable To Learn The Crankshaft Position Sensor's Signal

P1399 Wait To Start Lamp Circuit Open Or Shorted - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1403 Loss Of 5 Volts To EGR Sensor - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1475 Auxiliary 5 Volt Output Too High

P1476 Too Little Secondary Air

P1477 Too Much Secondary Air

P1478 Battery Temp Sensor Voltage Out Of Limit

P1479 Transmission Fan Relay Circuit Open Or Shorted

P1480 PCV Solenoid Valve Open Or Shorted - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1480 Open Or Shorted Condition Detected In The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1481 EATX RPM pulse generator signal for misfire detection

P1482 Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Shorted Low

P1483 Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Shorted High

P1484 Catalytic Converter Overheat Detected

P1485 Air Injection Solenoid Circuit Open Or Shorted - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1486 Evap Leak Monitor Pinched Hose

P1487 Hi Speed Rad Fan CTRL Relay Circuit Open Or Shorted

P1488 Auxiliary 5 Volt Supply Output Too Low

P1489 High Speed Fan CTRL Relay Circuit Open Or Shorted - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1490 Low Speed Fan CTRL Relay Circuit Open Or Shorted - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1491 Radiator Fan Control Relay Circuit Open Or Shorted - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1492 Battery Temperature Sensor Voltage Too High

P1493 Battery Temperature Sensor Voltage Too Low

P1494 Leak Detection Pump Switch or Mechanical Fault

P1495 Leak Detection Pump Solenoid Circuit Open Or Shorted

P1496 5 Volt Supply Output Too Low

P1498 High speed Rad Fan Ground CTRL Rly Circuit

P1499 Open Or Shorted Condition Detected In The Hydraulic Cooling Fan Solenoid Control

P1594 Charging System Voltage Too High

P1595 Speed Control Solenoid Circuit Open Or Shorted - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1596 Speed Control Switch Always High

P1597 Speed Control Switch Always Low

P1598 A/C Pressure Sensor Voltage Too High

P1599 A/C Pressure Sensor Voltage Too Low

P1602 PCM Not Programmed

P1680 Clutch Released Switch Circuit Open Or Shorted - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1681 No Instrument Panel Cluster CCD/J1850 Messages Received

P1682 Charging System Voltage Too Low

P1683 Speed Control Power Relay Or Speed Control 12 Volt Driver Circuit Open Or Shorted

P1684 Battery Disconnected Within Last 50 Starts

P1685 Skim Invalid Key

P1686 No SKIM Bus Message Received

P1687 No Cluster Bus Message

P1688 Internal Fuel Injection Pump Controller Failure

P1689 No Communication Between ECM & Injection Pump Module

P1690 Fuel Injection Pump CKP Sensor Does Not Agree With ECM CKP Sensor

P1691 Fuel Injection Pump Controller Calibration Failure

P1693 DTC Detected In ECM Or PCM

P1694 No CCD Messages Received From ECM

P1695 No CCD/J185O Message From BCM

P1696 PCM Failure EEPROM Write Denied

P1697 PCM Failure SRI Mile Not Stored

P1698 No CCD Messages Received From PCM

P1699 No CCD/J1850 Messages Received From The Climate Control Module (CCM)

P1719 Skip Shift Solenoid Circuit Open Or Shorted - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1740 TCC Or OD Solenoid Performance

P1756 Governor Pressure Not Equal To Target At 15-20 PSI

P1757 Governor Pressure Above 3 PSI When Request Is 0 PSI

P1762 Governor Pressure Sensor Offset Improper Voltage

P1763 Governor Pressure Sensor Voltage Too High

P1764 Governor Pressure Sensor Voltage Too Low

P1765 Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Control Circuit Open Or Shorted - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1830 Open Or Shorted Condition Detected In The Clutch Pedal Switch Over-Ride Relay Control - Read Our Article on Automotive Circuit Testing For Help With This Dodge Check Engine Light Code

P1899 Park/Neutral Position Switch Stuck In Park or In Gear

SOURCE
 
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#3 ·
Engine Problems / Code Errors

Anyone has a list of all trouble codes for the Nitro?
Or a link where I can find them?

Currently I have a engine trouble code P0103:mad:
 
#4 ·
Anyone has a list of all trouble codes for the Nitro?
Or a link where I can find them?

Currently I have a engine trouble code P0103:mad:
I do not have a list, nor do I know where to get one. I googled the code for you.

P0103 OBD-II Trouble Code

Technical Description

Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit High Input

What does that mean?

Basically this means that there is a problem with the Mass Air Flow High (MAF) sensor or circuit. A more technical description would be that the MAF circuit had higher than expected voltage (air flow). Other MAF sensor circuit DTC trouble codes are P0100, P0101, P0102, and P0104.

Symptoms

You will likely not notice any serious drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a general decrease in power or sluggishness.

Causes

A code P0103 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

The MAF may be disconnected, or a wiring connection may be bad
The MAF sensor may be damaged
The vehicle computer may be faulty (very rare)
Possible Solutions

The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back. Then start with the cheapest, easiest repair procedures:

Verify that the Mass Air Flow Sensor wiring is connected properly and that there are no broken / frayed wires.
Inspect for any air leaks near the MAF sensor.
Take the MAF out and clean it using a spray cleaner such as brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Be gentle with the sensor.
Check the voltage of the MAF sensor (refer to a repair manual for vehicle specific information)
Replace the MAF sensor.

:cool:
 
#5 ·
I found these. I do not know how accurate they are, nor do I know if all engines would throw the same codes. Good luck.

P0016-crankshaft/camshaft Timing Misalignment
P0031-o2 Sensor 1/1 Heater Circuit Low
P0032-o2 Sensor 1/1 Heater Circuit High
P0037-o2 Sensor 1/2 Heater Circuit Low
P0038-o2 Sensor 1/2 Heater Circuit High
P0051-o2 Sensor 2/1 Heater Circuit Low
P0052-o2 Sensor 2/1 Heater Circuit High
P0057-o2 Sensor 2/2 Heater Circuit Low
P0058-o2 Sensor 2/2 Heater Circuit High
P0071-ambient Air Temperature Sensor Performance
P0072-ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Low
P0073-ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High
P0107-manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Low
P0108-manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit High
P0111-intake Air Temperature Sensor Rationality
P0112-intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Low
P0113-intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High
P0116-engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Performance
P0117-engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Low
P0118-engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit High
P0121-throttle Position Sensor 1 Performance
P0122-throttle Position Sensor 1 Circuit Low
P0123-throttle Position Sensor 1 Circuit High
P0125-insufficient Coolant Temperature For Closed-loop Fuel Control
P0128-thermostat Rationality
P0129-barometric Pressure Out-of-range Low
P0131-o2 Sensor 1/1 Circuit Low
P0132-o2 Sensor 1/1 Circuit High
P0133-o2 Sensor 1/1 Slow Response
P0135-o2 Sensor 1/1 Heater Performance
P0137-o2 Sensor 1/2 Circuit Low
P0138-o2 Sensor 1/2 Circuit High
P0139-o2 Sensor 1/2 Slow Response
P013a-o2 Sensor 1/2 Slow Response - Rich To Lean
P013c-o2 Sensor 2/2 Slow Response - Rich To Lean
P0141-o2 Sensor 1/2 Heater Performance
P0151-o2 Sensor 2/1 Circuit Low
P0152-o2 Sensor 2/1 Circuit High
P0153-o2 Sensor 2/1 Slow Response
P0155-o2 Sensor 2/1 Heater Performance
P0157-o2 Sensor 2/2 Circuit Low
P0158-o2 Sensor 2/2 Circuit High
P0159-o2 Sensor 2/2 Slow Response
P0161-o2 Sensor 2/2 Heater Performance
P0171-fuel System 1/1 Lean
P0172-fuel System 1/1 Rich
P0174-fuel System 2/1 Lean
P0175-fuel System 2/1 Rich
P0201-fuel Injector 1 Circuit
P0202-fuel Injector 2 Circuit
P0203-fuel Injector 3 Circuit
P0204-fuel Injector 4 Circuit
P0205-fuel Injector 5 Circuit
P0206-fuel Injector 6 Circuit
P0221-throttle Position Sensor 2 Performance
P0222-throttle Position Sensor 2 Circuit Low
P0223-throttle Position Sensor 2 Circuit High
P0300-multiple Cylinder Misfire
P0301-cylinder 1 Misfire
P0302-cylinder 2 Misfire
P0303-cylinder 3 Misfire
P0304-cylinder 4 Misfire
P0305-cylinder 5 Misfire
P0306-cylinder 6 Misfire
P0315-no Crank Sensor Learned
P0325-knock Sensor 1 Circuit
P0330-knock Sensor 2 Circuit
P0335-crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit
P0339-crankshaft Position Sensor Intermittent
P0340-camshaft Position Sensor Circuit
P0344-camshaft Position Sensor Intermittent
P0401-egr System Performance
P0403-egr Solenoid Circuit
P0404-egr Position Sensor Rationality Open
P0405-egr Position Sensor Circuit Low
P0406-egr Position Sensor Circuit High
P0420-catalyst Efficiency (bank 1)
P0430-catalyst Efficiency (bank 2)

:cool:
 
#12 ·
oops - should have read your signature. It makes for good reading!

:cool:
 
#13 ·
Check wallet light on.

Just had the baby into CAA Auto care shop yesterday. Check wallet light came on two weeks ago, so booked the truck in, then the light went out, cancelled appointment. Then the light went on again, booked her in, then on the way in, the light went out again. The tech plugged the code reader in and there was nothing there, not even in the history. Next day the light came on again, took her in on the way home from work and code P0031 came up O2 sensor bank 1 voltage low. 2 hours and $260.00 CDN + tax to fix. He had to disconnect the front drive shaft to access.
I think your list is correct on that one dhh3. By the way, there are 4 x O2 sensors and all the same part #.
 
#14 ·
I think your list is correct on that one dhh3. By the way, there are 4 x O2 sensors and all the same part #.
This is good to know! I finally did something right. :eek:

I just looked under my Nitro. There is a small catalytic converter on each bank of cylinders. I wonder if there are 2 O2 sensors on each side, one in front of and one behind each catalytic converter? :confused: It was hard to see, but the drivers side converter is really close to the front drive shaft.

:cool:
 
#16 ·
Thank you. You made me learn something new yesterday. I like that.

:cool:
 
#17 ·
Engine Light Code Errors

so i just bought a 2010 dodge nitro shock edition all white(pics coming soon) and literally ten min after driving off the lot the engine light comes on. i plugged a scanner and got a p0300 for random misfire. i wasn't worried since im still under factory warranty. but the day i go to bring it in to service i start it up and the mil light goes away and drives fine, before i felt the misfire a lil bit coming off a complete stop. then a week goes by and the light comes on again, i plug up the scanner same code, now i dont erase it just turned off the car and unplugged scanner, start it up again and like magic this light is off. now this is really annoying as all i want to do is just take this car in to the dealer and not have them hit me with a diag fee since the light is not on and wondering if anyone has experienced this problem. imma mechanic and know how the dealers work so thats why i'm hoping this light could pop on soon and i can just tow it straight there so they can see i'm not crazy. but yeah if anyone has experinced this please help!!! lol by the way i'm new to this site i also have an 82 toyota supra and have a account on celica supra.com
 
#18 ·
Welcome!

Just don't erase your code next time, but I would think it could be viewed in history, but maybe not. I did the same thing but they found other error codes that I didn't know were in there with my checker. Good Luck!
 
#19 ·
Welcome to the forum. I am sorry to see that you had to join under these circumstances.
As Rick said, when the light come on, bring it to the dealer, and when you get there, do not shut off the engine. Sometimes, these sytems seem to "self test" and erase the codes if the system thinks it is fixed. I have had this happen to me!
Good luck.

:cool:
 
#20 ·
ok so heres a lil update. sry i still dont have pics its probably because i still dont have my car and this problem is persisting. so got the light on brought it straight to the dealer as soon as it came on. they checked it, drove it, erased it, and said it was a past code which i responded that thats bs because this code is on now and has been coming on and off. i was told to bring it back when it comes on. light comes on three days later, bring it in, let me know the next day that all they found was one faulty spark plug and ran fuel injection cleaner thru it thinking maybe i got bad gas which is also bs because 5 min after purchasing the car it came on. they told me they drove it all day tried getting the light back on nothing that it was all good to go, i drive 20 min home light comes on as soon as i park it with it smoking this time. i go back to the dealer furious at this point and not once could they even get me a rental or loaner, since i work at a nissan dealer my manager was nice enough to let me use a 2012 maxima in the mean time which i might trade the truck in for. get a call from the dealer saying they contacted chrysler and they recommended a deep combustion cleaning which i never even heard of but what they had to do was remove the cylinder head of bank 2 and put this solvent in clean off everything and reinstall head. again no fix light comes on as soon as i leave the dealer!!! now its in the shop as i'm typing this and got a call yesterday morning that now chrysler recommends to replace that whole cylinder head!!! this is just rediculous. i told them from day one maybe you should try replacing all the coils, but no dodge is retarded and this is the solution they come up with. by the way this dealer is sherman dodge in skokie illinois i totally would rec to stay away from these a-holes! thru out all this everytime i had to find out something its because i had to call up there only twice did i get a call and that was to keep the car over night every other time i had to call not even a call to say my cars ready, i call and this guy nick c. in service is like " oh yea your car is ready and everythings fine" when obviously its not i'm now about to write to the service manager and say how rediculous this has become and a major let down that i'm not treated like a customer because of my age. i'm 25 and these guys are acting as if i'm a kid and this is not my car. just because of my looks i shouldnt be judge on that when i bring my personal car in for service.
 
#21 ·
I feel your pain. It sucks when you have to deal with a dealer like this. It's no wonder that dealers get a bad wrap when this stuff goes on. I remember that someone on the jeepcommander forum had issues with a dealer in your area. I guss I am one of the lucky ones with a dealer I can trust. Good luck in whatever you do. Age and sex should not matter in any business transaction, but that is the way this country runs!

:cool:
 
#22 ·
MIL light on-n-off

I have a 2008 Nitro R/T with the 4.0L engine. I had 40,000 miles of relatively problem free use (OK, the driver side front seat lower trim, with the power seat controls, keeps falling off) before I retired.
I moved out of the US to Panama City, Panama and within 3 months the MIL light started to come on. It would be there for a week, then it would clear by itself. A few days later it comes back; usually 15 seconds after a hot restart. I've talked to some other Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep owners who have the same experience.
I never took it to a dealer, the only Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealer is a dual with M-B; all the shop prices are the same - EXPENSIVE! Without access to any readout device, if you say this is a suspected misfire problem then I will ignore it as a poor fuel avaiability issue. Thanks for the information. :)
 
#23 ·
I have a 2008 Nitro R/T with the 4.0L engine. I had 40,000 miles of relatively problem free use (OK, the driver side front seat lower trim, with the power seat controls, keeps falling off) before I retired.
I moved out of the US to Panama City, Panama and within 3 months the MIL light started to come on. It would be there for a week, then it would clear by itself. A few days later it comes back; usually 15 seconds after a hot restart. I've talked to some other Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep owners who have the same experience.
I never took it to a dealer, the only Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealer is a dual with M-B; all the shop prices are the same - EXPENSIVE! Without access to any readout device, if you say this is a suspected misfire problem then I will ignore it as a poor fuel avaiability issue. Thanks for the information. :)

Welcome to the forum. What's it like to live in Panama?

:cool:
 
#24 ·
It's hot and HUMID - LOL. My wife is from Panama so she has no problem. Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealers down here are a joke! I brought my NITRO from the USA down here; about $600 to ship.
The roads down here leave a lot to be desired - they don't know how to build them, maintain them, or fix them when they break.
 
#25 ·
I went through the canal, after a sail completely around South America, when I was in the Navy - west to east. Maybe, one day I'll get to visit again!

:cool:
 
#26 ·
Nitro stalling, rough idle and ticking!!! Please help

I'm trying repair my girlfriends dodge nitro. It's a 2008 SXT with the 3.7L V6. She went to work and and everything was fine when she got off a few hours later it wouldn't start, it will try and fire and if it does start it will idle VERY irraticly and go to about 500rpm and shut off. There is also a ticking noise that seems to be coming from somewhere on the passenger side of the engine. It must be in the motor because it gets worse with RPM.
I replaced all 6 spark plugs. The ones that were in there were BLACK and dry. I thought maybe that could be my problem, so I put new spark plugs in. Fired it up, and still would barely start and the same problems were there.
I hooked up my OBDII scanner and got a P0300 code which is multiple cylinder misfire. I cleared that code and started it and ran it until the engine light came on again. This time I got a P0301 so replaced that coil pack. No change in rough idle and engine shutting down unless its being revved and the ticking is still there. I took the coil packs off and found that my brand new spark plugs were BLACK! And all I had done was run the vehicle for a few minutes. I removed all the spark plugs and cleaned them off and put sea foam in the cylinder and tried to flush out the carbon. Which really didn't work.
So I went and got 5 gallons of premium gas and put it in the tank with the little less than a quarter tank that was already in there thinking it was maybe bad gas. I mixed in fuel system treatment to hopefully clear anything that may be in the fuel lines or injectors. I started and ran the vehicle and still the same issues. I'm at my wits end and I don't know what to do. If anyone has any information please help me out! The car won't even drive because it idles so rough and stalls if you take you foot off the gas
 
#27 ·
I was thinking about gas too and would try some dry-gas additive. The problem with this type of issue I have found is that yes electrical and gas have many-times the same results. Gas line filter replacement, since it was low on gas anyway? Maybe someone else has the answer? Good luck and let us know what you find. Thanks for the post and hopefully we can help.
 
#30 ·
It could be the crank position sensor - it does know when to actually fire the cylinders. The ticking is inherent to the 3.7. Sometimes, I feel as though I am driving a diesel.

:cool:
 
#31 ·
Not starting when warm

HI there I bought my wife an 07 slt 3.7l 4x4 w/6 speed manuel. We bought it with 113,000 kms and she loves it but there has been a problem when she goes to town to run errands if she shuts it off for less than 5 min or so its fine but if its longer like up to 30 min after and the engine is at operating temp it starts and dies right away. It seems once what ever is happening cools down then it starts and runs fine. weve taken it into the dealership twice and both times they looked at it it had sat so it worked fine so they say cant duplicate cant fix it. Im not sure what to do for her shes getting quite frusterated now that summer is here and the temp is warmer now its stranding her for longer. today she stopped for fuel and couldnt get it to start for 49 min. I'm an journeyman electrian/ indust mech so am mehanically inclined but this is well outta legue would really appreciate any help i can get.
Thanks
 
#32 ·
Tell me that she is not putting her foot on the throttle, AT ALL
 
#33 ·
No not at first she always has her feet on the clutch and the brake. I have gotten it to start tho when it's done that by feathering the throttle when it's starts and sputters for the split second and I can usually get it to catch and run. Then it will idle right down and run fine.
 
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