Dodge Nitro Forum banner

21 - 40 of 146 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
712 Posts
I feel your pain. It sucks when you have to deal with a dealer like this. It's no wonder that dealers get a bad wrap when this stuff goes on. I remember that someone on the jeepcommander forum had issues with a dealer in your area. I guss I am one of the lucky ones with a dealer I can trust. Good luck in whatever you do. Age and sex should not matter in any business transaction, but that is the way this country runs!

:cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
MIL light on-n-off

I have a 2008 Nitro R/T with the 4.0L engine. I had 40,000 miles of relatively problem free use (OK, the driver side front seat lower trim, with the power seat controls, keeps falling off) before I retired.
I moved out of the US to Panama City, Panama and within 3 months the MIL light started to come on. It would be there for a week, then it would clear by itself. A few days later it comes back; usually 15 seconds after a hot restart. I've talked to some other Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep owners who have the same experience.
I never took it to a dealer, the only Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealer is a dual with M-B; all the shop prices are the same - EXPENSIVE! Without access to any readout device, if you say this is a suspected misfire problem then I will ignore it as a poor fuel avaiability issue. Thanks for the information. :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
712 Posts
I have a 2008 Nitro R/T with the 4.0L engine. I had 40,000 miles of relatively problem free use (OK, the driver side front seat lower trim, with the power seat controls, keeps falling off) before I retired.
I moved out of the US to Panama City, Panama and within 3 months the MIL light started to come on. It would be there for a week, then it would clear by itself. A few days later it comes back; usually 15 seconds after a hot restart. I've talked to some other Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep owners who have the same experience.
I never took it to a dealer, the only Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealer is a dual with M-B; all the shop prices are the same - EXPENSIVE! Without access to any readout device, if you say this is a suspected misfire problem then I will ignore it as a poor fuel avaiability issue. Thanks for the information. :)

Welcome to the forum. What's it like to live in Panama?

:cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
It's hot and HUMID - LOL. My wife is from Panama so she has no problem. Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealers down here are a joke! I brought my NITRO from the USA down here; about $600 to ship.
The roads down here leave a lot to be desired - they don't know how to build them, maintain them, or fix them when they break.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
712 Posts
I went through the canal, after a sail completely around South America, when I was in the Navy - west to east. Maybe, one day I'll get to visit again!

:cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Nitro stalling, rough idle and ticking!!! Please help

I'm trying repair my girlfriends dodge nitro. It's a 2008 SXT with the 3.7L V6. She went to work and and everything was fine when she got off a few hours later it wouldn't start, it will try and fire and if it does start it will idle VERY irraticly and go to about 500rpm and shut off. There is also a ticking noise that seems to be coming from somewhere on the passenger side of the engine. It must be in the motor because it gets worse with RPM.
I replaced all 6 spark plugs. The ones that were in there were BLACK and dry. I thought maybe that could be my problem, so I put new spark plugs in. Fired it up, and still would barely start and the same problems were there.
I hooked up my OBDII scanner and got a P0300 code which is multiple cylinder misfire. I cleared that code and started it and ran it until the engine light came on again. This time I got a P0301 so replaced that coil pack. No change in rough idle and engine shutting down unless its being revved and the ticking is still there. I took the coil packs off and found that my brand new spark plugs were BLACK! And all I had done was run the vehicle for a few minutes. I removed all the spark plugs and cleaned them off and put sea foam in the cylinder and tried to flush out the carbon. Which really didn't work.
So I went and got 5 gallons of premium gas and put it in the tank with the little less than a quarter tank that was already in there thinking it was maybe bad gas. I mixed in fuel system treatment to hopefully clear anything that may be in the fuel lines or injectors. I started and ran the vehicle and still the same issues. I'm at my wits end and I don't know what to do. If anyone has any information please help me out! The car won't even drive because it idles so rough and stalls if you take you foot off the gas
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
23,430 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
I was thinking about gas too and would try some dry-gas additive. The problem with this type of issue I have found is that yes electrical and gas have many-times the same results. Gas line filter replacement, since it was low on gas anyway? Maybe someone else has the answer? Good luck and let us know what you find. Thanks for the post and hopefully we can help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Thanks for the help I did put TECHRON in along with the 5 gallons of gas of fresh gas I added. I'm going to check that fuel filter now.
As for the ticking does anyone know what that could be?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
The fuel filter is inside the gas tank........ What are the chances that that's my problem? I'm not looking forward to having to drop the tank.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
712 Posts
It could be the crank position sensor - it does know when to actually fire the cylinders. The ticking is inherent to the 3.7. Sometimes, I feel as though I am driving a diesel.

:cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Not starting when warm

HI there I bought my wife an 07 slt 3.7l 4x4 w/6 speed manuel. We bought it with 113,000 kms and she loves it but there has been a problem when she goes to town to run errands if she shuts it off for less than 5 min or so its fine but if its longer like up to 30 min after and the engine is at operating temp it starts and dies right away. It seems once what ever is happening cools down then it starts and runs fine. weve taken it into the dealership twice and both times they looked at it it had sat so it worked fine so they say cant duplicate cant fix it. Im not sure what to do for her shes getting quite frusterated now that summer is here and the temp is warmer now its stranding her for longer. today she stopped for fuel and couldnt get it to start for 49 min. I'm an journeyman electrian/ indust mech so am mehanically inclined but this is well outta legue would really appreciate any help i can get.
Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
Tell me that she is not putting her foot on the throttle, AT ALL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
No not at first she always has her feet on the clutch and the brake. I have gotten it to start tho when it's done that by feathering the throttle when it's starts and sputters for the split second and I can usually get it to catch and run. Then it will idle right down and run fine.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
Have the fuel injectors cleaned. Most shops will do this with a pump setup. Takes about 1/2 hour.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I bought 09 SE 3.7 2x4, 4 speed automatic, 137000km, 1 week ago and now I suffer from the same problem. Do you think the problem from starter because I notice that when I try to run the car the switch was not back to its place. please help me in this problem its my first car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
my car not start

I bought 09 SE 3.7 2x4, 4 speed automatic, 137000km, 1 week ago and now when I shut off the car and try to turn on it again its not start but after 20 mints or more its work normally. Do you think the problem from starter because I notice that when I try to run the car the switch was not back to its place. please help me in this problem its my first car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
friends I still wait.
in the normal I have no problem but just when I try start after turn off (when the car worm). what do you think the problem?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
712 Posts
Welcome to the forum. Can you tell what you mean by the switch not back to its place? :confused:

:cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
my friend, thank you, when I try to start the switch back to the "run" position after about 15 second but the car not start but after 30 minutes its start normaly
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
712 Posts
You may have a bad ignition switch. Possibly, something is grounding it out when it gets warm.

:cool:
 
21 - 40 of 146 Posts
Top