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Dodge Nitro Heater: Cold Air Issue

123K views 83 replies 16 participants last post by  rickaren 
#1 ·
07 Nitro R/t Only Issue I Have With Vehicle Is When Driving The Car And Blower Is On Heat There Is A Flow Of Cold Air In Center Console Drivers Side Hump Area And The Faster The Blower Speed Is The Colder It Gets Does Any One Else Have This Issue Thanks
 
#3 ·
If you are talking about your Nitro, Chrysler uses an electronic mixing valve, to control the temperature entering the cabin. There is a small electronic motor that moves this valve, via a plastic gear. Sometimes the motor fails, and sometimes the plastic gears can strip. If you turn your control valve from cold to hot, or hot to cold, and you hear clicking, the gears are probably stripped, not allowing the valve to mix. If you turn the heater fan down, you should be able to hear the motor - it should be on the passenger side, behind the glove box. At least, that is where it was on my Jeep. Good luck. :cool:
 
#5 · (Edited)
Heater issues

hello i have a 2008 nitro r/t and the blower motor stops working at times. i have been working on this for a month and i have caught it when it stops and checked it. have no voltage to the blower motor, or the resister pack so i thought it was the hvac control unit and bought a new one but it does the same thing. now i have found out that the blower switch power plug on the rear of the hvac unit is loosing voltage. wiggled all the wires and thinking there is a loose connection but nothing happens. does anyone know where that power comes from or have a wiring diagram please. dont know if it comes from another module or the pdm under the hood or where. i looked for a relay but the only relay that says blower k8 and it says rear blower. that makes no sense to me because there is no rear blower...thanks
 
#6 ·
Welcome to the forum. I am sorry to see that you joined under these circumstances. The blower motor is controlled by a resistor, and it seems to me that the resistor has a weak spot which may be causing an intermittant short.

:cool:
 
#9 ·
From a Factory & Recall perspective it was 2007, Nitros first year in production had numerous problems, but it's best sales year by far. By 2008 most issues had been addressed in production but future sales had already been damaged with Recalls, Reviews, Word-of-Mouth, from its first year. As far as design faults they remained since no real changes were ever made from the first years model through the end (2011). For myself I am still pleased I ordered my 2007 R/T, but thanks to info here it received every recall and TSB I saw, by my Dealer all under warranty. As in most cases the final year of 2011 production must have been the best year to have purchased a trouble-free new Nitro!
 
#8 ·
2007 was the first model year and I would have thought that any bugs would have been worked out by 2008. That being said, I can't really answer your question.

:cool:
 
#10 ·
Funny you mention this, my blower fan just stopped working in hi. works okay at the other speeds. Is it the switch or this resistor you mention? are they computer controlled? another odd thing happened a couple of months ago. came out of home and popped the tailgate. the radio started playing...odd!!
 
#11 ·
When one of the speeds stops working. 9 times out of 10 it is the resistor. This happened to me on both my Jeep Liberty (2x) and my Jeep Commander.

:cool:
 
#12 ·
blower motor issue killing me need help

hello i have a 2008 nitro r/t and the blower motor stops working at times. i have been working on this for a month and i have caught it when it stops and checked it. have no voltage to the blower motor, or the resister pack so i thought it was the hvac control unit and bought a new one but it does the same thing. now i have found out that the blower switch power plug on the rear of the hvac unit is loosing voltage. wiggled all the wires and thinking there is a loose connection but nothing happens. does anyone know where that power comes from or have a wiring diagram please. dont know if it comes from another module or the pdm under the hood or where. i looked for a relay but the only relay that says blower r8 and it says rear blower. that makes no sense to me because there is no rear blower...thanks
 
#14 ·
Radiator vs. coolant?

My 2008 (but purchased in 2009 with 26 miles) Nitro was blowing cold air on the drivers side, but had heat on the passenger side. Brought it to the dealer, who has been the ONLY one to work on the vehicle since I bought it new. They determined the problem was a blockage in a radiator hose - the coolant was like mud, which they said was a result of an interaction between the OE G-05 coolant and the radiator. They also said there was corrosion throughout the cooling system, and that I might need a new heater core, radiator and thermostat :( . My warranty was up earlier this year and I only have 45,000 miles on my truck. My question: has anyone ever heard of this type of problem? I researched it on the Internet without success and I'm thinking there is something very wrong when the dealer makes me pay to fix a problem for a reaction between their coolant and their radiator. They also suggested I sell my truck to them asap so they can auction it off. Can anyone help? Thanks!
 
#15 ·
Welcome!

Usually this issue is caused with improper setting on the dash or the distribution baffle under the dash. Sure the radiator or heater core could need flushing or a change of coolant might be a good ideal, but that would be because of no heat. Sounds like a Dealer taking advantage of you to me. Find another Dealer or even a repair shop to get a second opinion!

Also it appears they want you to buy another vehicle from them and steal your Nitro that you think needs major repairs. With only 45K miles your Nitro would be considered having low miles.

Hope you don't follow their suggestions and find another source to just have your heater work on the drivers side. I had the same issue when my Nitro R/T was new and it was covered under warranty, and it was with the distribution door/duct-work under the dash near the floor. They ordered all new parts and installed to correct a know factory issue at the time.

Hope this helps out and please let us know how it works out for you, and Good Luck!
 
#17 ·
Welcome to the forum. I agree with Rick 100% here, and it really bothers me when I hear things like this. I am lucky enough to have a good dealer that I can trust. It could be a bad blend valve, or one of the doors in the ducting is stuck. If your dealer has serviced your truck since new, they would know that it is the original coolant. Get a second opinion; and then initiate a complaint against your dealer, through Chrysler. At this jesture, I'm sure that they would abide by your wishes. :eek: Good luck.

:cool:
 
#19 ·
Truck was in the dealership this week with intermittent shudder when shifting. While there they noticed the blower issue mentioned above. Not resistor but switch. quoted $250.00 to replace, no thank you...
 
#20 ·
Here is the switch from ebay:

07 10 Dodge Avenger Sebring Climate Heater Control 05058100AE Original | eBay

They are charging you way to much in labor. To get the dash center stack face plate off, do the following:
1. Remove the rubber pad from the top cubby, to expose 2 screws. Remove these screws.
2. With a panel removal tool, or similar, insert it between the center stack cover and frame - pull forward gently. Work yourself down a little at a time, alternating sides. The cover is held on with metal friction clips.
3. When you get to the bottom, you will need to put the shifter in Low, for clearance. Make sure your E-brake is on!
4. Once the panel is free, unplug the power port, the heater control and the switch strip below it. The heater control module is screwed to the back of the center stack panel. Switch the old one for the new one, then put it all back together.

Simple way to save almost $200. Good luck.

:cool:
 
#21 ·
Hi again! I brought my Nitro to another dealer and they told me I need to replace the heater housing unit. They checked the heater core and said it was fine, so they have no idea what the other dealership was thinking. Even though my warranty has expired, they are going to only charge me 15% of the full cost of the repair ($200.00 versus $1300), so I think that's a pretty good deal. Hopefully, this will fix the problem. Thanks for helping!
 
#22 ·
Just for reference (and to help understand what your issue was) would you please post the factory part # this Dealer replaced for you (should be on your paid receipt), to correct your issue. Thanks and good luck and thanks for the follow-up.
 
#25 ·
The second dealer replaced the heating housing unit (part #68004022-AA) and guess what? I have heat! I am going to call the first dealer and ask them to refund the $400.00 I spent to not have the problem fixed.

Thanks!
Great News! Thanks for the follow-up. It never made any sense since you had heat (right-side) that you would need what the first Dealership recommended like a radiator, thermostat, heater core and so on for some big repair bucks. If you were experiencing no heat, maybe. Glad you got the issue addressed at a fair price and now have a Dealer that you can trust for any future service. Good Luck in the future with your Nitro, too.
 
#27 ·
Heater Fan Not working

I had my heater blower resistor and control module replace just 9 months ago on my 2010 Nitro and now the blower is not working again. Is this a known issue? I spent a cool $600 on the repair March 2013. The heater appear to be working as it gets warm but the fan do not work at any speed or make any noise. The warranty states 12 months or 12,000 miles on parts; it's been 9 months and 14, 000 miles. Can the dealer deny warranty repair?
 
#28 ·
They can deny coverage based on your mileage - you are 2,000 over. But, there is a deeper issue because it has happened again. Go back to your dealer and sweet talk them. Their reputation is at stake here!

:cool:
 
#29 ·
New issue

I went to the dealer who made the repair and after having my truck for six hours they said it was the blower fan now. Part $159 and $400 for labor; after pleading they said they would do it at cost. Then they said $249 for labor. I don't trust them because I had another issue with them charging parts I told them not to.

I contacted a dealer 20 miles farther down the road and the same part is $10 cheap and the quote on the labor is $125. Go figure, $275 difference in labor charge from dealers.
 
#30 ·
Yes all Dealers are not created equal! Find a good one and stay with them. Just maybe you might purchase another vehicle from them in the future. Good Luck!
 
#31 ·
I guess that I am one of the lucky ones that has a "good dealer". I have been a repeat customer for many years because they have always treated me fairly, IMHO. My next vehicle will be a Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk, when the Nitro begins to fade, and I will purchase it from my dealer. I will not shop around - no need to.

:cool:
 
#33 ·
Heater knob control

Ok I'm new here but have a question hoping someone can help.... I have a 2010 Nitro and two days ago my heater control stopped working.... Heater turns on and off just fine, blows hot air and temp can still be adjusted but the location the air comes out won't change.... So I have heat on the face... No feet, no defrost, no mix..... Just face... Any ideas?
 
#34 ·
Ok I'm new here but have a question hoping someone can help.... I have a 2010 Nitro and two days ago my heater control stopped working.... Heater turns on and off just fine, blows hot air and temp can still be adjusted but the location the air comes out won't change.... So I have heat on the face... No feet, no defrost, no mix..... Just face... Any ideas?
As you have figured out it is just your CLIMATE CONTROL PANEL selector that is not working that may be caused by the blend door not moving. I found that there is a 2007-2011 Dodge Nitro Air Flap Actuator Dorman



but maybe something else like a fuse or the blend door stuck or a wire loose. Not really sure. You can check the controller by removing the radio bezel and you should be able to move the door manually to check out it is functioning. Good Luck and let us know what you find.
 
#36 ·
Welcome laplantet


The Mode Control (all heater/AC settings )on the Nitro is confusing. On mine I have to set it to the "head of the figure" to have air flow on the floor NOT the "floor of that figure" Also if either of the PUSH lights are on the Temperature Control or the Mode Control that may be an issue too. They should be off. Have you played to make sure the three control knobs are set correctly?
 
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