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Check Oil Level 2007-2011 Dodge Nitro

Check Oil Level 2007-2011 Dodge Nitro



Video Description

Checking the oil in a Nitro is fairly easy and should be done once a month. Note that most Dodge have an oil pressure gauge next to the speedometer - this gauge does not tell you what your oil level is, however the video above will show you how check the oil level in your 2010 Dodge Nitro. Make sure your engine is cold when you check the oil in your Nitro. Otherwise the dipstick will read slightly low. In addition to checking the oil level, you also want to look at the condition of the oil when you have the dipstick out. If the oil in your Nitro is dirty or smells like gasoline, you probably need an oil change.

If you notice that the oil level in your Nitro is extremely low or empty, fill it up and check it again the next time you drive. If it is extremely low again, have your mechanic take a look before driving it much more.
 

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2007-2011 Dodge Nitro: Fix Oil Leaks

2007-2011 Dodge Nitro: Fix Oil Leaks


Video Description

This video shows you how to fix minor oil leaks in your 2010 Dodge Nitro and how to tell if the fluid leaking from your Nitro is oil, how to check your oil level and how to fix the oil leak. Low oil levels can wreck your engine, so it is important to be proactive about oil leaks, however small. Oil leaks in the 2010 Nitros with the 4.0 liter engine are often due to a bad seal in the drain plug - the metal washer in your drain plug can only be tightened a few times before it loses its ability to seal and should be replaced periodically to prevent leaking. Replacing the metal washer should only be done when you change the oil in your Nitro, fortunately the video above shows how to fix the minor leak in the interim.

Make sure that your engine is cold and that your Nitro is parked on a level surface when you check the oil level as both of these things can cause the oil level to read low. Check our What is Leaking? video to see what type of fluid is leaking from your Nitro if you need help figuring out what type of oil is leaking from your Nitro.


 

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Oil & Filter Change Dodge Nitro (2007-2011)

Oil & Filter Change Dodge Nitro (2007-2011)


Video Description

This video shows you how to change the oil and oil filter in your 2010 Dodge Nitro. When you change your own oil, you know that you are putting quality oil in your Nitro and that the filter is being changed too. Most importantly, you get a chance to look around under your Nitro for potential trouble spots. This video shows you the location of your oil drain plug, oil filter, oil fill cap and dipstick in addition to the steps needed to change the oil and filter in your Nitro. For most Dodges, you can wrap an old belt around the oil filter and unscrew it by hand. If you can't do this, see our parts page to find a Dodge Nitro oil filter wrench. If your Nitro is too low to the ground to access your drain plug and oil filter, be sure to use jack stands and safe jacking procedures before getting under your Nitro.

Most Dodges have the oil type printed on the oil cap - it will likely be 5W-20, 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30 or 10W-40. If it isn't printed on the oil cap, check your owners manual for the exact type before adding new oil. We recommend wearing safety glasses whenever you are working under your Nitro. You never know what could be dripping down from the engine, battery acid, engine coolant, brake fluid, etc. All of these fluids are extremely harmful to your eyes and skin so it is important to protect yourself.


 

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Service Light reset Dodge Nitro 2007


Published on Feb 4, 2016

Simple steps on how to reset the Service light / Service indicator on a Dodge Nitro 2007-
 

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Oil Change Dodge Nitro Jeep Liberty 3.7 liter


Published on Aug 7, 2016

1 of 2 videos showing you how to remove oil filter more easily.





Published on Aug 7, 2016

2 of 2 videos showing how to change the oil filter and reinstall one more easily.
 

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Oil Change Importance


Published on Jan 20, 2017

Oil is the lifeblood of your vehicle. It keeps your engine lubricated – and clean. A lot can happen if you neglect its oil…none of it good. Watch and learn how to keep your car healthy with frequent oil changes.
 

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How to reset oil change light


Published on Feb 23, 2017
 

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2007 dodge nitro oil change


May 9, 2018
This is how to do an oil change in a dodge nitro
 

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Five common myths about engine oil

Five common myths about engine oil

May 14, 2018



What does the W really stand for? Do you have to change your oil every 3,000 miles? Does synthetic oil cause leaks? With the help of Cenex, learn about what's real and what's not when it comes to engine oils.


Myth No. 1: The “W” in 10W-30 stands for “weight.”

The numbers in a multi-grade rating represent the oil’s viscosity, or thickness. The higher the number, the thicker the oil. The best oils are a happy medium; neither thick like sludge nor thin like water.

Because oil viscosity changes with temperature, the multi-grade rating gives you both the hot and cold viscosities. 10W represents the oil’s viscosity rating for winter use, according to a rating system developed by the Society of Auto Engineers. And that’s why the “W” in 10W-30 stands for “winter.”

Myth No. 2: You should change your oil every 3,000 miles.

Oil chemistry and engine technology have evolved tremendously since the days of the 3,000-mile oil change. The majority of vehicle manufacturers now recommend vehicle owners change their oil every 7,500 to 10,000 miles, based on a normal maintenance schedule. Why the change?

Synthetic oils, such as MAXTRON PCMO, are helping to stretch the time between oil changes. The improved oils provide superior anti-wear protection while maximizing fuel economy.

Also, oil life monitoring systems, which notify the driver when an oil change is needed, are becoming the standard in many new models. Instead of using the standby miles driven method, the technology monitors engine revolutions, operating temperatures and other factors to optimize the change interval selection.

Refer to your owner’s manual for your vehicle manufacturer’s oil change recommendation.

Myth No. 3: Synthetic engine oils can wear down seals in an engine and cause leaks.

This is an often-cited myth. In fact, if your seals and gaskets are in good condition, synthetic oil will not leak in your engine. Synthetic oil has not been shown to deteriorate engine seals or gaskets. But it might find an existing leak. The smaller molecules of synthetic oil are able to pass through very small cracks and crevices that the larger molecules of petroleum-based oil cannot. Eventually, those small cracks and crevices can lead to bigger problems — with or without synthetic oil.

Myth No. 4: My engine will benefit if I use supplemental additives.

Adding commercially available additives to your oil is unnecessary, as REPUTABLE MOTOR OILS will be already formulated with additives to ensure optimal engine performance.

Additional additives may dilute the effectiveness of the oil or even upset the oil chemistry. Refer to your owner’s manual for information about oil additives for your vehicle.

Myth No. 5: Once you use synthetic oil, you can’t switch back to conventional oil.

Switching between synthetic and conventional oils will not cause any damage to an engine. In fact, synthetic blends are a mixture of synthetic and conventional oil.

SOURCE
 

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Do I Need to Change Motor Oil for Summer?

Do I Need to Change Motor Oil for Summer?

Jun 15, 2018




There is a long-lasting belief among some car owners in places with four seasons that you may need to change the oil in your car as temperatures climb or fall.

Motor oil is the lifeblood of your car. It needs to be able to flow freely over all the moving parts of your engine. Traditionally, the temperature of the oil changed how easily it flowed through the engine. Called viscosity, this is the physical measurement for how “thick” a liquid is. Motor oil in low temperatures could turn into something more like molasses, which could prevent it from properly coating the engine in a cold start.

However, if you use the right motor oil, it keeps a higher viscosity at a lower temperature. But, as the heat rises, the oil becomes too thin. Motor oil uses the term weight to describe its viscosity, which is where the numbers you have seen on all oil containers comes from.

There is good news, however. Motor oil has come a long way. You no longer really need to change your motor oil every season, because it changes for you. Known as multi-viscosity motor oil, it does exactly what the name suggests. As temperatures fall, the weight of the oil changes to allow it to flow easily over the engine. Then, once summer comes back around, the oil thickens to protect the engine. This is how the motor oil gets its name; by displaying the two viscosities.

For most motor oils on the market today, their weight ratings come in the form of two numbers. The first, followed by a “W”, is the winter rating. The second, typically a much higher number, is the SAE standard rating for maximum temperature performance. So, if motor oil now changes based on the seasons, which one is the right one to buy? According to the SAE, motor oil, like this Valvoline oil rated at 10W30, is designed to stay fluid up to –30 C, while continue protecting the engine up to 100 C. It’s ideal for most temperate climates.




There are other factors for how hot motor oil gets; like speed. Track enthusiasts may find their engines producing a lot of heat, and the oil in their motor needs to be rated to handle that. Lucas Oil has formulated a synthetic oil with an SAE rating of 20W50. It should handle high heat and some cooler temperatures well.



Synthetic oil is actually still oil, just refined further than conventional motor oil. There are typically also more additives to boost performance. Mobil is a popular choice among OE vehicles, and their 0W40 full synthetic has excellent multi-viscosity ratings. Every engine is different, and most vehicles have been engineered to use a specific kind of motor oil. Refer to your user manual for the SAE rating which best fits your vehicle.



AutoGuide.com
 

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Do I Need to Change Motor Oil for Summer?

Do I Need to Change Motor Oil for Summer?

Jun 15, 2018




There is a long-lasting belief among some car owners in places with four seasons that you may need to change the oil in your car as temperatures climb or fall.

Motor oil is the lifeblood of your car. It needs to be able to flow freely over all the moving parts of your engine. Traditionally, the temperature of the oil changed how easily it flowed through the engine. Called viscosity, this is the physical measurement for how “thick” a liquid is. Motor oil in low temperatures could turn into something more like molasses, which could prevent it from properly coating the engine in a cold start.

However, if you use the right motor oil, it keeps a higher viscosity at a lower temperature. But, as the heat rises, the oil becomes too thin. Motor oil uses the term weight to describe its viscosity, which is where the numbers you have seen on all oil containers comes from.

There is good news, however. Motor oil has come a long way. You no longer really need to change your motor oil every season, because it changes for you. Known as multi-viscosity motor oil, it does exactly what the name suggests. As temperatures fall, the weight of the oil changes to allow it to flow easily over the engine. Then, once summer comes back around, the oil thickens to protect the engine. This is how the motor oil gets its name; by displaying the two viscosities.

For most motor oils on the market today, their weight ratings come in the form of two numbers. The first, followed by a “W”, is the winter rating. The second, typically a much higher number, is the SAE standard rating for maximum temperature performance. So, if motor oil now changes based on the seasons, which one is the right one to buy? According to the SAE, motor oil, like this Valvoline oil rated at 10W30, is designed to stay fluid up to –30 C, while continue protecting the engine up to 100 C. It’s ideal for most temperate climates.




There are other factors for how hot motor oil gets; like speed. Track enthusiasts may find their engines producing a lot of heat, and the oil in their motor needs to be rated to handle that. Lucas Oil has formulated a synthetic oil with an SAE rating of 20W50. It should handle high heat and some cooler temperatures well.



Synthetic oil is actually still oil, just refined further than conventional motor oil. There are typically also more additives to boost performance. Mobil is a popular choice among OE vehicles, and their 0W40 full synthetic has excellent multi-viscosity ratings. Every engine is different, and most vehicles have been engineered to use a specific kind of motor oil. Refer to your user manual for the SAE rating which best fits your vehicle.


AutoGuide.com
 

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Should You Use High-Mileage Oil in Your Car?




Stroll down the oil aisle of a typical auto-parts store and you’ll be confronted with a literal wall of lubricant.





Dozens of brands vie for your attention and dollars with countless different types and formulations. Some promise cleaner-running engines, others boast about improved fuel efficiency and still more claim to enhance performance.



Causing further confusion, there’s conventional and full-synthetic, plus blends of the two; there are oils made specifically for diesel engines and some for certain automotive brands. Others feature fancy-sounding metals including molybdenum, zinc and even titanium. And then there are lubricants that are supposedly tailor-made for older vehicles with lots of miles. All of this is confusing enough to make you head straight to your local dealership for service.


But let’s say you drive a well-worn vehicle, something with an odometer that’s been around the planet a few times. Is special high-mileage oil worth the extra price compared to a conventional lubricant?


Z. George Zhang, Ph.D. and director of Valvoline Technical International thinks so. He said there are “distinct differences” compared to regular oils.


“Most of the high mileage oil will have a seal conditioner,” he said. “Normally they will have more seal conditioners in the formula.” But that’s not the only difference between them and conventional lubricants.


CHEMICAL DIFFERENCES


“We actually talked to a lot of people with high-mileage [vehicles],” Zhang said. Their top complaint had to do with leaks. Drips and puddles on the pavement are embarrassing and unnecessary.



Having a car or truck that “marks its territory,” so to speak, is often the result of seal degradation. Over time the rubber components inside a powerplant can become brittle and shrink; small cracks can even form. All of this decay can lead to seepage and leaks.


“Most of the high-mileage oil will have a seal conditioner,” Zhang said. He also noted that Valvoline introduced its MaxLife product range around the year 1999 or 2000, so they’ve been on the market now for about a decade and a half.


With elastomers, a fancy name for the rubber materials seals are made from, Zhang said over time certain chemical components can leach out of them. Special conditioning compounds “tend to react with elastomers,” replacing what’s been lost over time and increasing their sealing abilities. Think of these chemicals as a salve. If your hands are dried out and the skin is cracked you can rejuvenate it with lotion, which restores its flexibility.


Top 12 Best Synthetic Oil Products You Can Buy


“We researched a lot of these chemical compounds that can be used to rejuvenate seals,” Zhang said. He also mentioned that seal conditioners help make seals more flexible and can cause them to expand slightly, another thing that helps stop leaks.


WHO SHOULD USE HIGH-MILEAGE OIL?


When is the time right to start running a high-mileage oil? The folks at Valvoline recommend you make the switch at 75,000 miles. Zhang said “we use 75,000 as a typical reminder,” though you can certainly run MaxLife or a similar product beyond that, or even before.


It’ s really good for high-mileage engines,” said Zhang, though the lubricant’s unique formulation includes more than just seal conditioners. Valvoline’s product, for instance, features extra anti-wear additives as well as additional dispersants and detergents to help break up any sludge and keep things clean.


Zhang said that when moving parts are out of tolerance, such as inside a high-mileage engine, there’s a greater chance for “metal-on-metal wear,” which is a very bad thing. He said “anti-wear materials form a sacrificial layer between metal surfaces” stopping harmful friction.


WHAT CAN HIGH-MILEAGE OIL DO?


In general terms, high-mileage oil probably costs a bit more than a comparable standard lubricant, but if your car has been around the block a few hundred thousand times, the benefits can be well worth the added expense.


For instance, the abovementioned seal conditioners can be surprisingly effective. According to Zhang “usually after two oil changes the leaking will be gone.” Additionally, he said, “some of the older vehicles tend to produce a white-bluish smoke,” which is a symptom of burning oil.

For instance, if an engine’s valve-guide seals have gone bad, the conditioners found in high-mileage lubricants can help reduce seepage past these parts, but that’s not all. Valvoline’s MaxLife product has a lower volatility rating, which means it’s less likely to burn in the first place. Zhang said this is “a fairly apparent thing [owners] can see after an oil change,” that is, less off-color smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Can you say instant gratification?​
 

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Should You Use High-Mileage Oil in Your Car?




Stroll down the oil aisle of a typical auto-parts store and you’ll be confronted with a literal wall of lubricant.





Dozens of brands vie for your attention and dollars with countless different types and formulations. Some promise cleaner-running engines, others boast about improved fuel efficiency and still more claim to enhance performance.



Causing further confusion, there’s conventional and full-synthetic, plus blends of the two; there are oils made specifically for diesel engines and some for certain automotive brands. Others feature fancy-sounding metals including molybdenum, zinc and even titanium. And then there are lubricants that are supposedly tailor-made for older vehicles with lots of miles. All of this is confusing enough to make you head straight to your local dealership for service.


But let’s say you drive a well-worn vehicle, something with an odometer that’s been around the planet a few times. Is special high-mileage oil worth the extra price compared to a conventional lubricant?


Z. George Zhang, Ph.D. and director of Valvoline Technical International thinks so. He said there are “distinct differences” compared to regular oils.


“Most of the high mileage oil will have a seal conditioner,” he said. “Normally they will have more seal conditioners in the formula.” But that’s not the only difference between them and conventional lubricants.


CHEMICAL DIFFERENCES


“We actually talked to a lot of people with high-mileage [vehicles],” Zhang said. Their top complaint had to do with leaks. Drips and puddles on the pavement are embarrassing and unnecessary.



Having a car or truck that “marks its territory,” so to speak, is often the result of seal degradation. Over time the rubber components inside a powerplant can become brittle and shrink; small cracks can even form. All of this decay can lead to seepage and leaks.


“Most of the high-mileage oil will have a seal conditioner,” Zhang said. He also noted that Valvoline introduced its MaxLife product range around the year 1999 or 2000, so they’ve been on the market now for about a decade and a half.


With elastomers, a fancy name for the rubber materials seals are made from, Zhang said over time certain chemical components can leach out of them. Special conditioning compounds “tend to react with elastomers,” replacing what’s been lost over time and increasing their sealing abilities. Think of these chemicals as a salve. If your hands are dried out and the skin is cracked you can rejuvenate it with lotion, which restores its flexibility.


Top 12 Best Synthetic Oil Products You Can Buy


“We researched a lot of these chemical compounds that can be used to rejuvenate seals,” Zhang said. He also mentioned that seal conditioners help make seals more flexible and can cause them to expand slightly, another thing that helps stop leaks.


WHO SHOULD USE HIGH-MILEAGE OIL?


When is the time right to start running a high-mileage oil? The folks at Valvoline recommend you make the switch at 75,000 miles. Zhang said “we use 75,000 as a typical reminder,” though you can certainly run MaxLife or a similar product beyond that, or even before.


It’ s really good for high-mileage engines,” said Zhang, though the lubricant’s unique formulation includes more than just seal conditioners. Valvoline’s product, for instance, features extra anti-wear additives as well as additional dispersants and detergents to help break up any sludge and keep things clean.


Zhang said that when moving parts are out of tolerance, such as inside a high-mileage engine, there’s a greater chance for “metal-on-metal wear,” which is a very bad thing. He said “anti-wear materials form a sacrificial layer between metal surfaces” stopping harmful friction.


WHAT CAN HIGH-MILEAGE OIL DO?


In general terms, high-mileage oil probably costs a bit more than a comparable standard lubricant, but if your car has been around the block a few hundred thousand times, the benefits can be well worth the added expense.


For instance, the abovementioned seal conditioners can be surprisingly effective. According to Zhang “usually after two oil changes the leaking will be gone.” Additionally, he said, “some of the older vehicles tend to produce a white-bluish smoke,” which is a symptom of burning oil.

For instance, if an engine’s valve-guide seals have gone bad, the conditioners found in high-mileage lubricants can help reduce seepage past these parts, but that’s not all. Valvoline’s MaxLife product has a lower volatility rating, which means it’s less likely to burn in the first place. Zhang said this is “a fairly apparent thing [owners] can see after an oil change,” that is, less off-color smoke coming out of the tailpipe. Can you say instant gratification?​
 

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But you don’t have to drive a hooptie to run this kind of lubricant. Zhang said “it’s really good for high-mileage engines… for when vehicle performance is deteriorating,” but it can be used in brand-new cars as well. Added anti-wear and detergent compounds are just as helpful in a factory-fresh vehicle as they are in one that’s got 75,000 miles on the clock. IS IT WORTH THE EXTRA COST?


Asked directly about whether high-mileage oil was worth the added expense Zhang said “absolutely; it’s for the benefit of the engine.” He also noted that regardless of when you switch it helps keep your car or truck’s powerplant “running in optimum condition longer.”


Maintaining an older vehicle and keeping it rollin’ down the road for years to come is money in the bank compared to a monthly car payment, even if you have to spend a couple extra bucks at each oil change.

3671



https://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2014/05/use-high-mileage-oil-car.html
 
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