Welcome to the forum. All the tow package from the factory adds is the hitch, wiring, and a full size spare. There is also a wire under the dash, by the steering column, to hook up an electric trailer brake controller. On the 4.0, it also includes the oil cooler and the mechanical fan. The 3.7 does not require these, as the 3.7 is built to be a truck engine, whereas the 4.0 is a car engine.The 4.0 is only rated to 2000lbs stock
3500lbs w/ tow package (engine oil cooler and maybe a mechanical fan)
>3500lbs to 5000lbs with tow package & weight distribution hitch.
As stated, no tow/haul button on the 4.0.
That wouldn't be any problem, I tow my caravan with my 2.8CRD and it works like a charm.Hi all. I'm new to the forum. I am in the UK and am looking to buy a diesel 2.7 sxt auto. I want to pull a boat and trailer which has a combined weight of 2000kgs. Does anyone know if I will be able to tow this weight?
Many thanks in advance
Today in our 2011 Dodge Nitro we'll be installing tow ready T1 connector part number 118554. Our first step of our install will be opening up the rear cargo door or removing the tail light housing on the driver side. To remove the housing or simply use a flat blade screwdriver and full off on the push-pin tabs to secured in the position. Popped it in out of place and setting it aside. Then we'll pop the rear tail light assembly out of place, being careful not to break the alignment tabs underneath. Then go and press on the locking connector for the manufacturers wire in to the back of the tail light assembly and disconnect the tail light assembly and set it aside.
Now were ready to take the new tow ready harness, we can go ahead and take the yellow and brown wire connector and plug directly in to the manufacturers wiring. Next well take the red and green wire connector which will be routed over to the passenger side and feed it down underneath the vehicle between the bumper cover and the body of the vehicle. Well follow that by the 4 pole connector which will get feed underneath and down to the center of the vehicle and out to the hitch. With that done we can then take the white wire with the pre-attach ring terminal and secured to the body of the vehicle using the self-tapping screw provide with an install kit. Note, finding an area where the sheet metal doubles up will make a better ground connection than going to a single layer sheet metal.
Here, below on the tail line alignment tabs is a great location. Now, ground wire is secured, well need to extend the power wire coming off the converter box which would be the black wire using a length of wire provided with the install kit. So with both ends strip back we can use the yellow butt connector to secure the two black wires together. Quick tech tip I recommended this time to go ahead and take some black electrical tape and wrap up this connection point to help keep out any dirt, dust, debris, or moisture. Next well go ahead and mount the converter box.
To mount converter box were looking for a clean flat piece of sheet metal to adhere to. First, go ahead and take a cloth and clean out the sheet metal and then we can secure it just below the driver side tail light assembly or peel back the two adhesive, put in place, and firmly press it in the position. Now if that done we can go ahead and reconnect the driver side tail light assembly and reinstall it. Now with the driver side tail light assembly reinstalled were going to remove the passenger side tail light assembly repeating the same process. Now well go ahead and get underneath the vehicle and start routing the 4 pole to the center of the vehicle and out to hitch and then the red and green wire connector over to the passenger side and up behind the passenger side tail light assembly.
Now with those two wires routed we can go ahead and take some black zip ties and secure the wiring up underneath the vehicle. Well use the pre-drilled holes in the undercarriage of the vehicle to secure the wiring as we routed over to the passenger side and also for our 4 pole connector as we routed to the hitch and securing the extra length of wire behind the hitch.Now with the wire secured underneath well go ahead, well get back behind to the passenger side tail light assembly and plug the tow ready harness in to the manufacturers wire and then use a black zip ties in securing extra wiring that wont be needed at this time, this will help prevent it from hanging low and catching on the exhaust which can damage the wire. Now, the wires are secured well go ahead and plug the tow ready harness in to the back of the tail light assembly and reinstall the tail light assembly. Next were going and get underneath the vehicle and start routing our power wire up to the engine compartment and ultimately to the battery. As we route our wire walls were using a black zip ties to secure it as we go. Note, when routing your wires to be mindful of moving components, the steering or suspension or excessive heat such as exhaust that can damage the wires. To assisted in routing our wire were going to use a pole wire on this case a piece of air line or we can do is go ahead and route the air line to the frame rail and then attach our pole wire to it and pull it in to position. Now weve got our wire routed to the frame up towards the engine compartment. Well need to use a wire aluminum clamp and a self-tapping screw to create a point that we can route the wire up in to the engine compartment. Well be using the Red Line metal alum clamp quarter inch part number A0250 and a self-tapping screw. Now, were got our wire routed to the alum clamp, well go ahead and feed it up to the engine compartment using our pole wire for assistance in getting to the top of the engine bay. Next well go ahead and do the top with the engine compartment and pull our wire up in the position and secured to the manufacturers wiring with the black zip tie. Now well go ahead and route it over the positive battery terminal. With our wire route in and secured well now go ahead and prepare our fuse holder. Well take the fuse holder, cut in half, strip back both sides. One end will add the yellow butt connector and on the other end will eventually get the ring terminal. However, well go ahead and remove the positive battery post cap first, feed the fuse holder ring terminal end up through the positive battery post cap and then install the ring terminal. Now, well go ahead and measure the power wire with the fuse holder and cut off any excess wire from the power wire strip it back and add to the other end of our butt connector. Now with that secured once again Ill go ahead and wrap this connection point up with some black electrical tape. Next well go ahead and remove the knot from the positive battery post and then we can install the ring terminal and re-secure the knot closing the cap on the positive battery post. Next well go ahead and take our fuse holder and install the fuse. With the fuse installed, put the cap in place and then we could take a zip tie right around the manufacturers wire through our fuse holder and secure it here near the battery. With that this will complete the install of our tow ready T1 connector part number 118554 in conjunction with the Red Line metal alum clap part number A0250 on our 2011 Dodge Nitro. .