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The 4.0 is only rated to 2000lbs stock
3500lbs w/ tow package (engine oil cooler and maybe a mechanical fan)
>3500lbs to 5000lbs with tow package & weight distribution hitch.

As stated, no tow/haul button on the 4.0.
 

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The 4.0 is only rated to 2000lbs stock
3500lbs w/ tow package (engine oil cooler and maybe a mechanical fan)
>3500lbs to 5000lbs with tow package & weight distribution hitch.

As stated, no tow/haul button on the 4.0.
Welcome to the forum. All the tow package from the factory adds is the hitch, wiring, and a full size spare. There is also a wire under the dash, by the steering column, to hook up an electric trailer brake controller. On the 4.0, it also includes the oil cooler and the mechanical fan. The 3.7 does not require these, as the 3.7 is built to be a truck engine, whereas the 4.0 is a car engine.

:cool:
 

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Hi all. I'm new to the forum. I am in the UK and am looking to buy a diesel 2.7 sxt auto. I want to pull a boat and trailer which has a combined weight of 2000kgs. Does anyone know if I will be able to tow this weight?

Many thanks in advance
 

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Hi all. I'm new to the forum. I am in the UK and am looking to buy a diesel 2.7 sxt auto. I want to pull a boat and trailer which has a combined weight of 2000kgs. Does anyone know if I will be able to tow this weight?

Many thanks in advance
That wouldn't be any problem, I tow my caravan with my 2.8CRD and it works like a charm.
My caravan weighs around 2500kg fully loaded.
 

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towbar

Hi can anyone shed some light on what I need to buy to be able to fit a towbar onto a 2007 nitro with 20inch spare wheel still fixed on underside of car or is there a certain make of towbar that I can buy to fit .thanks dennis
 

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The Mopar unit bolts to the frame rails. The threaded holes are already in the frame rails.

:cool:
 

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12/16/2014
How-To Guides
learn how to load up, get hitched and hit the road



"Towing is about more than just power – it is an art form. The skill and patience to safely deliver a heavy load, to properly back a trailer into a tight spot, and to keep a trailer going straight down a highway — require practice and an understanding of your truck’s capabilities. However, if you do your homework regarding proper equipment and practices, the process soon becomes almost second nature. Back to School Welcome to Ram Trucks School of Towing, three tutorial videos, each focused on one important aspect of towing."

Welcome to Ram Trucks School of Towing
 

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Safety Tips for Trailering a Boat




Safety Tips for Trailering a Boat

Published on Apr 30, 2015

Join boats.com for the Tips for Boat Towing video series, brought to you by Ram Trucks. In this video we'll cover safety tips; everything you need to know from the pre-tow safety check, to on-the-road trailering, to tips for using the boat ramp. Be sure to check out the rest of the towing videos in the boats.com video library, where we'll touch on topic ranging from towing on sand (for you duck hunters) to towing in the mountains, as we put this Ram 1500 Outdoorsman through its paces.
 

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Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2011 Dodge Nitro

Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2011 Dodge Nitro


Products Featured in this Video


T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness
118554



Installation of a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2011 Dodge Nitro

Today in our 2011 Dodge Nitro we'll be installing tow ready T1 connector part number 118554. Our first step of our install will be opening up the rear cargo door or removing the tail light housing on the driver side. To remove the housing or simply use a flat blade screwdriver and full off on the push-pin tabs to secured in the position. Popped it in out of place and setting it aside. Then we'll pop the rear tail light assembly out of place, being careful not to break the alignment tabs underneath. Then go and press on the locking connector for the manufacturers wire in to the back of the tail light assembly and disconnect the tail light assembly and set it aside.

Now were ready to take the new tow ready harness, we can go ahead and take the yellow and brown wire connector and plug directly in to the manufacturers wiring. Next well take the red and green wire connector which will be routed over to the passenger side and feed it down underneath the vehicle between the bumper cover and the body of the vehicle. Well follow that by the 4 pole connector which will get feed underneath and down to the center of the vehicle and out to the hitch. With that done we can then take the white wire with the pre-attach ring terminal and secured to the body of the vehicle using the self-tapping screw provide with an install kit. Note, finding an area where the sheet metal doubles up will make a better ground connection than going to a single layer sheet metal.

Here, below on the tail line alignment tabs is a great location. Now, ground wire is secured, well need to extend the power wire coming off the converter box which would be the black wire using a length of wire provided with the install kit. So with both ends strip back we can use the yellow butt connector to secure the two black wires together. Quick tech tip I recommended this time to go ahead and take some black electrical tape and wrap up this connection point to help keep out any dirt, dust, debris, or moisture. Next well go ahead and mount the converter box.

To mount converter box were looking for a clean flat piece of sheet metal to adhere to. First, go ahead and take a cloth and clean out the sheet metal and then we can secure it just below the driver side tail light assembly or peel back the two adhesive, put in place, and firmly press it in the position. Now if that done we can go ahead and reconnect the driver side tail light assembly and reinstall it. Now with the driver side tail light assembly reinstalled were going to remove the passenger side tail light assembly repeating the same process. Now well go ahead and get underneath the vehicle and start routing the 4 pole to the center of the vehicle and out to hitch and then the red and green wire connector over to the passenger side and up behind the passenger side tail light assembly.

Now with those two wires routed we can go ahead and take some black zip ties and secure the wiring up underneath the vehicle. Well use the pre-drilled holes in the undercarriage of the vehicle to secure the wiring as we routed over to the passenger side and also for our 4 pole connector as we routed to the hitch and securing the extra length of wire behind the hitch.Now with the wire secured underneath well go ahead, well get back behind to the passenger side tail light assembly and plug the tow ready harness in to the manufacturers wire and then use a black zip ties in securing extra wiring that wont be needed at this time, this will help prevent it from hanging low and catching on the exhaust which can damage the wire. Now, the wires are secured well go ahead and plug the tow ready harness in to the back of the tail light assembly and reinstall the tail light assembly. Next were going and get underneath the vehicle and start routing our power wire up to the engine compartment and ultimately to the battery. As we route our wire walls were using a black zip ties to secure it as we go. Note, when routing your wires to be mindful of moving components, the steering or suspension or excessive heat such as exhaust that can damage the wires. To assisted in routing our wire were going to use a pole wire on this case a piece of air line or we can do is go ahead and route the air line to the frame rail and then attach our pole wire to it and pull it in to position. Now weve got our wire routed to the frame up towards the engine compartment. Well need to use a wire aluminum clamp and a self-tapping screw to create a point that we can route the wire up in to the engine compartment. Well be using the Red Line metal alum clamp quarter inch part number A0250 and a self-tapping screw. Now, were got our wire routed to the alum clamp, well go ahead and feed it up to the engine compartment using our pole wire for assistance in getting to the top of the engine bay. Next well go ahead and do the top with the engine compartment and pull our wire up in the position and secured to the manufacturers wiring with the black zip tie. Now well go ahead and route it over the positive battery terminal. With our wire route in and secured well now go ahead and prepare our fuse holder. Well take the fuse holder, cut in half, strip back both sides. One end will add the yellow butt connector and on the other end will eventually get the ring terminal. However, well go ahead and remove the positive battery post cap first, feed the fuse holder ring terminal end up through the positive battery post cap and then install the ring terminal. Now, well go ahead and measure the power wire with the fuse holder and cut off any excess wire from the power wire strip it back and add to the other end of our butt connector. Now with that secured once again Ill go ahead and wrap this connection point up with some black electrical tape. Next well go ahead and remove the knot from the positive battery post and then we can install the ring terminal and re-secure the knot closing the cap on the positive battery post. Next well go ahead and take our fuse holder and install the fuse. With the fuse installed, put the cap in place and then we could take a zip tie right around the manufacturers wire through our fuse holder and secure it here near the battery. With that this will complete the install of our tow ready T1 connector part number 118554 in conjunction with the Red Line metal alum clap part number A0250 on our 2011 Dodge Nitro. .

SOURCE
 

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If you are adding a trailer hitch to you Nitro you might want to check out a product like this....


Vehicle To Trailer Wiring Harness Connector For 07 Dodge Nitro Plug Play
by eCustomhitch


Plug and Play Trailer Wiring Harness Designed Specifically For Your Vehicle
Installation Time: Usually Under Ten Minutes
Allows For Full Use Of The Trailer Lights, Turn Signals and Brake Lights


See more product details
 

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Installation of a Trailer Wiring Harness

Installation of a Trailer Wiring Harness

Published on Apr 19, 2013

http://www.etrailer.com/t1-2011_Dodge...

Today in our 2011 Dodge Nitro we'll be installing tow ready T1 connector part number 118554. Our first step of our install will be opening up the rear cargo door or removing the tail light housing on the driver side. To remove the housing or simply use a flat blade screwdriver and full off on the push-pin tabs to secured in the position. Popped it in out of place and setting it aside. Then we'll pop the rear tail light assembly out of place, being careful not to break the alignment tabs underneath. Then go and press on the locking connector for the manufacturers wire in to the back of the tail light assembly and disconnect the tail light assembly and set it aside.

Note: Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
 

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Needing some help with towing questions

So I have a 2011 Nitro my wife and I just bought a pop up camper, however our nitro didn't come with a receiver hitch so I mounted one on myself with the help out my dad. I've been told lately that all newer vehicles have a plug that is pre mounted on the car that I can just mount directly on and have a seven round or what ever plug I need to have on it? So my question is where might it be located if i do have one where would I find it?
 

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Welcome Nissan!

Everything we have on Towing is in this LINK if you have not read it, already. Not sure but unless the Nitro has a trailer factory package I don't think it has a plug. Good Luck.
 

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Installation of a Trailer Brake Controller


Published on Dec 30, 2015


Today on this 2011 Dodge Nitro we're going to show you a Tekonsha Voyager Brake Controller, part number 39510. With this brake controller we're also going to need a couple additional parts. We're going to need part number ETBC7. This is the brake controller installation kit, and also we're going to use part number 18136 from Tow Ready. This is a universal mounting bracket. When we do our install, we'll actually start with that part first. This is what the Tekonsha Voyager Brake Controller looks like installed in a typical location.
 

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Installation of the Air Lift Air Helper Springs



Installation of the Air Lift Air Helper Springs on a 2011 Dodge Nitro - etrailer.com

Published on Dec 29, 2015


Today on this 2011 Dodge Nitro, we're going to show you an Airlift 1000 Air Helper Springs for Coil Springs. Part number AL60820. Now, before we do our install, we'll go ahead and put a load in the back of a vehicle and we'll go ahead and take it on our test course over the bumps to see how suspension works without any help over the bumps. Now, original measurement before we put the load in the vehicle was 32" and now with our weight in the vehicle, we'll go ahead and get our next measurement. Our new measurement's going to be about 31". We'll go ahead and check our measurement now with loaded and airbag's in use. It's a little over 32".
 

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