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O.K, why would I post my addition and install of adding DRLs (Daytime Running Lamps) to my Wife's 2010 Ford Taurus here? Will simply, this install could be a universal install to about any vehicle even if you could not use the same 20 inch strip LED lights. They make other LED lamp kits that can be cut-to-fit, and these lights can be mounted to most headlamp lenses, if no room below the lamp is available. When mounted they give the impression of being inside the headlamp assembly. If you like what you see here and own a Nitro or other Chrysler product, and choose to install some type of aftermarket DRL please post pictures of your install here. Thanks.

P.S. The reason I did not put these on my Nitro is I have already taken care of that installing Projector Headlamps with Halo Rings that act as DRLs being on when engine is running.

DLR Lights Installed!
2010 Taurus DRL’s Added!

August 21, 2010


We have owned a Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, Dodge Nitro R/T, and two Ford Explorers “Eddie Bauer “Editions, and ALL did not come with Daytime Running Lamps and ALL did not offer factory kits or a optional “factory flash” to turn them on. (except if you moved to Canada). Using an aftermarket kit that required splicing I installed this important safety feature, on all the above. When I ordered our 2010 Taurus Limited I found that again the same issue, and was determined to try something new and ordered the Factory wiring diagrams to seek a better install. I quickly determined it was not going to be, so I used Google to search for a solution. For those that suggest adding these lights is a waste of time you may be correct, however I have pulled out in front of cars that usually are dark or blend into the road color and do not stand out. (no accidents). I can only think that any vehicles with some front lights on in daylight will bring more notice to them being in the roadway approaching. Will this fact keep someone from pulling out in-front-of –you, Positively Not! See there are Jerks that will do that anyway, but at least you know they saw you! As far as turning your headlamps on all the time when driving, that will work, but when driving two cars I sometimes forget which vehicle with DRLs, and the one without. I want DRLs on all the time while driving!


Using the Search Engine for “LED Daytime Running Lamps”, I was amazed to find several companies listings that I had not seen in years past. I found and ordered (IJDMtoy) a set of inexpensive 20” pair Audi style A5 Q7 48 light flexible strips to try out. I have posted pictures below. How durable are they? Well like anything these days who knows but they are made in Japan not China for a change, and state “over 50000 hour life”. I really like them and so does my Wife. If they go bad I may upgrade to a more expensive light or tryout 6 light ones within a housing that could be mounted in the grille openings, being only about ½ inch height. (U67)


Well I ran into an issue from the start since these lights do not come with a mounting tape, but after contacting the Company I bought Scotch Exterior Mounting Tape 4011 and before mounting I checked out these lamps for working order. Well neither worked and with another e-mail to the Company they suggested (no instructions came with these lamps) to reverse the wiring and they worked! For some reason what I thought was the ground copper wire MUST be the power wire? Having applied this tape, cutting it to fit the back of these lamps I removed the front top radiator/grille plastic cover and ran the wiring from the end of each lamp into there and proceeded to push these lamps, removing the red cover. Starting from the inside working toward the sides I used a small pry bar (or a flat blade screwdriver) pushing these lights directly into to small opening below the headlamp lens and the bumper. Fit perfectly and looks like they are inside. I had planned to mount directly to the bottom of the headlamp lens if they had not fit, but in this location they are very well protected.

I then connected lead wires to all four light wires with water proof connectors, and anchored with tie strips before re-installing top cover. There are few metal ground points in the front of this vehicle so I terminated at the left front fender with an unused bolt. (PICTURE) To find a power point for these lights only when the engine was running became another issue, but using a fuse tap ( Bussmann ATM Fuse add-a-circuit # BP HHH-RP) allowed this install with no splicing of any Factory wiring. I used the fuse number F46 for power on the engine Power Distribution Box, since it is only “Hot” when engine is running. If you use this kit you need to purchase an additional mini type ATM fuse since this fuse tap require two (one for the original use and one for the new accessory). A first in my DRL installs with great results. (PICTURES & PRODUCT USED BELOW)

Remove cover from Battery Junction Box

Ground light cables to medal fender, install fuse tap to location of fuse that only is hot when engine is running and make sure that your wiring does not interfere with reinstall the lid.

Lights OFF/Engine Off
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