[rickaren]

Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2011 Dodge Nitro

Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2011 Dodge Nitro


Products Featured in this Video


T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness
118554


Installation of a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2011 Dodge Nitro

Today in our 2011 Dodge Nitro we'll be installing tow ready T1 connector part number 118554. Our first step of our install will be opening up the rear cargo door or removing the tail light housing on the driver side. To remove the housing or simply use a flat blade screwdriver and full off on the push-pin tabs to secured in the position. Popped it in out of place and setting it aside. Then we'll pop the rear tail light assembly out of place, being careful not to break the alignment tabs underneath. Then go and press on the locking connector for the manufacturers wire in to the back of the tail light assembly and disconnect the tail light assembly and set it aside.

Now were ready to take the new tow ready harness, we can go ahead and take the yellow and brown wire connector and plug directly in to the manufacturers wiring. Next well take the red and green wire connector which will be routed over to the passenger side and feed it down underneath the vehicle between the bumper cover and the body of the vehicle. Well follow that by the 4 pole connector which will get feed underneath and down to the center of the vehicle and out to the hitch. With that done we can then take the white wire with the pre-attach ring terminal and secured to the body of the vehicle using the self-tapping screw provide with an install kit. Note, finding an area where the sheet metal doubles up will make a better ground connection than going to a single layer sheet metal.

Here, below on the tail line alignment tabs is a great location. Now, ground wire is secured, well need to extend the power wire coming off the converter box which would be the black wire using a length of wire provided with the install kit. So with both ends strip back we can use the yellow butt connector to secure the two black wires together. Quick tech tip I recommended this time to go ahead and take some black electrical tape and wrap up this connection point to help keep out any dirt, dust, debris, or moisture. Next well go ahead and mount the converter box.

To mount converter box were looking for a clean flat piece of sheet metal to adhere to. First, go ahead and take a cloth and clean out the sheet metal and then we can secure it just below the driver side tail light assembly or peel back the two adhesive, put in place, and firmly press it in the position. Now if that done we can go ahead and reconnect the driver side tail light assembly and reinstall it. Now with the driver side tail light assembly reinstalled were going to remove the passenger side tail light assembly repeating the same process. Now well go ahead and get underneath the vehicle and start routing the 4 pole to the center of the vehicle and out to hitch and then the red and green wire connector over to the passenger side and up behind the passenger side tail light assembly.

Now with those two wires routed we can go ahead and take some black zip ties and secure the wiring up underneath the vehicle. Well use the pre-drilled holes in the undercarriage of the vehicle to secure the wiring as we routed over to the passenger side and also for our 4 pole connector as we routed to the hitch and securing the extra length of wire behind the hitch.Now with the wire secured underneath well go ahead, well get back behind to the passenger side tail light assembly and plug the tow ready harness in to the manufacturers wire and then use a black zip ties in securing extra wiring that wont be needed at this time, this will help prevent it from hanging low and catching on the exhaust which can damage the wire. Now, the wires are secured well go ahead and plug the tow ready harness in to the back of the tail light assembly and reinstall the tail light assembly. Next were going and get underneath the vehicle and start routing our power wire up to the engine compartment and ultimately to the battery. As we route our wire walls were using a black zip ties to secure it as we go. Note, when routing your wires to be mindful of moving components, the steering or suspension or excessive heat such as exhaust that can damage the wires. To assisted in routing our wire were going to use a pole wire on this case a piece of air line or we can do is go ahead and route the air line to the frame rail and then attach our pole wire to it and pull it in to position. Now weve got our wire routed to the frame up towards the engine compartment. Well need to use a wire aluminum clamp and a self-tapping screw to create a point that we can route the wire up in to the engine compartment. Well be using the Red Line metal alum clamp quarter inch part number A0250 and a self-tapping screw. Now, were got our wire routed to the alum clamp, well go ahead and feed it up to the engine compartment using our pole wire for assistance in getting to the top of the engine bay. Next well go ahead and do the top with the engine compartment and pull our wire up in the position and secured to the manufacturers wiring with the black zip tie. Now well go ahead and route it over the positive battery terminal. With our wire route in and secured well now go ahead and prepare our fuse holder. Well take the fuse holder, cut in half, strip back both sides. One end will add the yellow butt connector and on the other end will eventually get the ring terminal. However, well go ahead and remove the positive battery post cap first, feed the fuse holder ring terminal end up through the positive battery post cap and then install the ring terminal. Now, well go ahead and measure the power wire with the fuse holder and cut off any excess wire from the power wire strip it back and add to the other end of our butt connector. Now with that secured once again Ill go ahead and wrap this connection point up with some black electrical tape. Next well go ahead and remove the knot from the positive battery post and then we can install the ring terminal and re-secure the knot closing the cap on the positive battery post. Next well go ahead and take our fuse holder and install the fuse. With the fuse installed, put the cap in place and then we could take a zip tie right around the manufacturers wire through our fuse holder and secure it here near the battery. With that this will complete the install of our tow ready T1 connector part number 118554 in conjunction with the Red Line metal alum clap part number A0250 on our 2011 Dodge Nitro. .

SOURCE

 

[rickaren]

2010 Dodge Nitro Trailer Hitches

2010 Dodge Nitro Trailer Hitches

 

[rickaren]

If you are adding a trailer hitch to you Nitro you might want to check out a product like this....


Vehicle To Trailer Wiring Harness Connector For 07 Dodge Nitro Plug Play
by eCustomhitch

Plug and Play Trailer Wiring Harness Designed Specifically For Your Vehicle
Installation Time: Usually Under Ten Minutes
Allows For Full Use Of The Trailer Lights, Turn Signals and Brake Lights

› See more product details

 

[rickaren]

Installation of a Trailer Wiring Harness

Installation of a Trailer Wiring Harness

Published on Apr 19, 2013

http://www.etrailer.com/t1-2011_Dodge...

Today in our 2011 Dodge Nitro we'll be installing tow ready T1 connector part number 118554. Our first step of our install will be opening up the rear cargo door or removing the tail light housing on the driver side. To remove the housing or simply use a flat blade screwdriver and full off on the push-pin tabs to secured in the position. Popped it in out of place and setting it aside. Then we'll pop the rear tail light assembly out of place, being careful not to break the alignment tabs underneath. Then go and press on the locking connector for the manufacturers wire in to the back of the tail light assembly and disconnect the tail light assembly and set it aside.

Note: Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

 

[Ivanushka]

photos not found(

 

[Nissan_Man]

Needing some help with towing questions

So I have a 2011 Nitro my wife and I just bought a pop up camper, however our nitro didn't come with a receiver hitch so I mounted one on myself with the help out my dad. I've been told lately that all newer vehicles have a plug that is pre mounted on the car that I can just mount directly on and have a seven round or what ever plug I need to have on it? So my question is where might it be located if i do have one where would I find it?

 

[rickaren]

Welcome Nissan!

Everything we have on Towing is in this LINK if you have not read it, already. Not sure but unless the Nitro has a trailer factory package I don't think it has a plug. Good Luck.

 

[rickaren]

Installation of a Trailer Brake Controller

Published on Dec 30, 2015


Today on this 2011 Dodge Nitro we're going to show you a Tekonsha Voyager Brake Controller, part number 39510. With this brake controller we're also going to need a couple additional parts. We're going to need part number ETBC7. This is the brake controller installation kit, and also we're going to use part number 18136 from Tow Ready. This is a universal mounting bracket. When we do our install, we'll actually start with that part first. This is what the Tekonsha Voyager Brake Controller looks like installed in a typical location.

 

[rickaren]

Installation of the Air Lift Air Helper Springs

Installation of the Air Lift Air Helper Springs on a 2011 Dodge Nitro - etrailer.com

Published on Dec 29, 2015


Today on this 2011 Dodge Nitro, we're going to show you an Airlift 1000 Air Helper Springs for Coil Springs. Part number AL60820. Now, before we do our install, we'll go ahead and put a load in the back of a vehicle and we'll go ahead and take it on our test course over the bumps to see how suspension works without any help over the bumps. Now, original measurement before we put the load in the vehicle was 32" and now with our weight in the vehicle, we'll go ahead and get our next measurement. Our new measurement's going to be about 31". We'll go ahead and check our measurement now with loaded and airbag's in use. It's a little over 32".

 

[rickaren]

Trailer Hitch Install:

Trailer Hitch Install: CURT 13334 on a 2008 Dodge Nitro

Published on Sep 15, 2014

Trailer Hitches, Cargo Carriers, and Bike Racks from CURT Manufacturing
This video depicts the installation of the CURT 13334 receiver hitch on a 2008 Dodge Nitro.

Install Sheet - https://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary...

Application Coverage:
2007 - 2011 Dodge Nitro

 

[rickaren]

Installation of a Trailer Hitch on a 2007 Dodge Nitro

Published on Jan 19, 2016

Today on our 2007 Dodge Nitro, we'll be installing the Curt Class III 2-Inch Receiver Tube Hitch, part number 13334. Here's what our hitch will look once installed. It's got a nice round, cross tube design with a fully welded hitch. The only thing that is really exposed past the bumper is our receiver tube hitch, the hitch pin hole and our chain hold outs. Being a class 3 hitch, it's capable of 350 pounds of tongue-weight and 3,500 pounds of towing capability. If you had a weight distribution hitch, you can get up to 500 pounds of tongue-weight and 5,000 pounds of towing capability. Next, we'll go ahead and give you a couple of measurements to assist you in selecting accessories for your new hitch.

 

[rickaren]

How to Tow a Trailer

Published on Nov 19, 2015

Pickup trucks are built to pull trailers, but there’s quite a bit that you need to know before you go hooking up to one. For Part 1 of our new How to Truck series, we’ve assembled a list of the basic instructions that you’ll need to know before you set off with something in tow.

 

[rickaren]

How To Launch A Boat

Published on Nov 25, 2015

Boats don't have wheels and your truck can't drive on water. Fortunately, however, trucks are perfect for bringing your water toys to the lake. In the latest installment of our How to Truck series, we'll walk you through everything you need to know to launch a boat.

 

[rickaren]

Trailer Brake Controller Installation

Uploaded on May 5, 2011

Today on this 2010 Dodge Nitro we are going to install brake controller part number 90885 from Tekonsha. This is their Prodigy P2 brake controller. And to install this, we are going to use part number ETBC7. The first thing we need to do is go ahead and take the bracket from the ETBC7 kit. We are going to install that on to the bracket that is on the hitch. The next step is to go ahead and do some partial assembly on the 7-pole itself. What we will do is we will go ahead and add the gray cable that comes with the kit and we will hook it up to our 7-pole connector. What we are going to do is actually just wind this up in electric tape and leave our leads out that we need. We are going to leave our 4-pole sticking out and we are going to need our brake wire which is going to be blue and out black wire for 12 volt power supply. And then we will just wrap up our purple and white wires. Our white wire is going to go directly to the frame for ground. And then the purple wire is going to be for reverse lights if it is ever needed. And to our black and blue wires we are going to install the grey cable that has the black and white wires inside of it. What we are going to do is just peel away the grey sheath. Then stripe our wires back and make our connections: black to black and white to blue. Cover those up with some electric tape. Next we will go ahead and install the loom along the wires like this. 1:20

 

[rickaren]

Trailer Wiring Install:

Published on Aug 20, 2014

This video depicts the installation of the CURT 56183 T-Connector on a 2008 Dodge Nitro.

Install Sheet - https://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary...

Application Coverage:
2007-2011 Dodge Nitro
2008-2012 Jeep Liberty

 

[rickaren]

For more detailed info on this subject, visit:

Service Information Nitro Lamps/lighting - exterior

 

[rickaren]

For more detailed info on this subject, visit:

Service Information Nitro Lamps/lighting - exterior

 

[rickaren]

Dodge Nitro: Trailer towing

Dodge Nitro: Trailer towing
Dodge Nitro / Dodge Nitro Owner's Manual / Starting and operating / Trailer towing

In this section you will find safety tips and information on limits to the type of towing you can reasonably do with your vehicle. Before towing a trailer, carefully review this information to tow your load as efficiently and safely as possible. To maintain warranty coverage, follow the requirements and recommendations in this manual concerning vehicles used for trailer towing.

Common Towing Definitions

The following trailer towing related definitions will assist you in understanding the following information:

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)

The GVWR is the total allowable weight of your vehicle. This includes driver, passengers, cargo and tongue weight. The total load must be limited so that you do not exceed the GVWR. Refer to “Vehicle Loading/Vehicle Certification Label” in Starting and Operating” for further information.

Gross Trailer Weight (GTW)

The GTW is the weight of the trailer plus the weight of all cargo, consumables and equipment (permanent or temporary) loaded in or on the trailer in its loaded and ready for operation condition. The recommended way to measure GTW is to put your fully loaded trailer on a vehicle scale. The entire weight of the trailer must be supported by the scale.

WARNING: If the gross trailer weight is 3,500 lbs (1 587 kg) or more, it is mandatory to use a weight-distributing hitch to ensure stable handling of your vehicle. If you use a standard weight-carrying hitch, you could lose control of your vehicle and cause an accident.

Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR)

The GCWR is the total permissible weight of your vehicle and trailer when weighed in combination.

NOTE: The GCWR rating includes a 150 lbs (68 kg) allowance for the presence of a driver.

Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR)

The GAWR is the maximum capacity of the front and rear axles. Distribute the load over the front and rear axles evenly. Make sure that you do not exceed either front or rear GAWR. Refer to “Vehicle Loading/Vehicle Certification Label” in Starting and Operating” for further information.

WARNING: It is important that you do not exceed the maximum front or rear GAWR. A dangerous driving condition can result if either rating is exceeded. You could lose control of the vehicle and have an accident.

Tongue Weight

The tongue weight is the downward force exerted on the hitch ball by the trailer. In most cases it should not be less than 10% or more than 15% of the trailer load. You must consider this as part of the load on your vehicle.

Frontal Area

The frontal area is the maximum height multiplied by the maximum width of the front of a trailer.

Trailer Sway Control

The trailer sway control is a telescoping link that can be installed between the hitch receiver and the trailer tongue that typically provides adjustable friction associated with the telescoping motion to dampen any unwanted trailer swaying motions while traveling.

Weight-Carrying Hitch

A weight-carrying hitch supports the trailer tongue weight, just as if it were luggage located at a hitch ball or some other connecting point of the vehicle. These kind of hitches are the most popular on the market today and they are commonly used to tow small- and mediumsized trailers.

Weight-Distributing Hitch

A weight-distributing system works by applying leverage through spring (load) bars. They are typically used for heavier loads to distribute trailer tongue weight to the tow vehicle’s front axle and the trailer axle(s). When used in accordance with the manufacturer’s directions, it provides for a more level ride, offering more consistent steering and brake control, thereby enhancing towing safety. The addition of a friction/hydraulic sway control also dampens sway caused by traffic and crosswinds and contributes positively to tow vehicle and trailer stability. Trailer sway control and a weight distributing (load equalizing) hitch are recommended for heavier Tongue Weights (TW) and may be required depending on vehicle and trailer configuration/loading to comply with gross axle weight rating (GAWR) requirements.

WARNING:
• An improperly adjusted weight distributing hitch system may reduce handling, stability, and braking performance and could result in an accident.
• Weight distributing systems may not be compatible with surge brake couplers. Consult with your hitch and trailer manufacturer or a reputable recreational vehicle dealer for additional information.

Without Weight-Distributing Hitch (Incorrect) Without Weight-Distributing Hitch (Incorrect)

With Weight-Distributing Hitch (Correct) With Weight-Distributing Hitch (Correct)

Improper Adjustment of Weight-Distributing Hitch Improper Adjustment of Weight-Distributing Hitch (Incorrect)

 

[rickaren]

Trailer Hitch Classification

Your vehicle is capable of towing trailers up to 2,000 lbs (907 kg) without added equipment or alterations to the standard equipment. Your vehicle may be factory equipped for safe towing of trailers weighing over 2,000 lbs (907 kg) with the optional trailer tow prep package. See your authorized dealer for package content. The following chart provides the industry standard for the maximum trailer weight a given trailer hitch class can tow and should be used to assist you in selecting the correct trailer hitch for your intended towing condition. Refer to the Trailer Towing Weights (Maximum Trailer Weight Ratings) chart for the Max. GTW towable for your given drivetrain.

All trailer hitches should be professionally installed on your vehicle.

Trailer Towing Weights (Maximum Trailer Weight Ratings)

The following chart provides the maximum trailer weight ratings towable for your given drivetrain.

When Towing Trailers with Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) between 3,500 Lbs (1

When Towing Trailers with Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) between 3,500 Lbs (1 588 kg) and 5,000 Lbs (2 268 kg)

The following chart provides maximum trailer weight ratings towable for the following engine/transmission combinations, ONLY if using a weight distributing hitch.

Trailer and Tongue Weight

Always load a trailer with 60% to 65% of the weight in the front of the trailer. This places 10% to 15% of the Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) on the tow hitch of your vehicle. Loads balanced over the wheels or heavier in the rear can cause the trailer to sway severely from side-toside which will cause loss of control of vehicle and trailer. Failure to load trailers heavier in front is the cause of many trailer accidents.

Consider the following items when computing the weight on the rear axle of the vehicle:
• The tongue weight of the trailer.
• The weight of any other type of cargo or equipment put in or on your vehicle.
• The weight of the driver and all passengers.

NOTE: Remember that everything put into or on the trailer adds to the load on your vehicle. Also, additional factory-installed options or authorized dealer-installed options must be considered as part of the total load on your vehicle. Refer to “Tire Safety Information/Tire and Loading Information Placard” in “Starting and Operating” for the maximum combined weight of occupants and cargo for your vehicle.

Towing Requirements

To promote proper break-in of your new vehicle drivetrain components the following guidelines are recommended:

CAUTION:
• Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (805 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.
• Then, during the first 500 miles (805 km) that a trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.

WARNING: Improper towing can lead to an injury accident. Follow these guidelines to make your trailer towing as safe as possible:
• Make certain that the load is secured in the trailer and will not shift during travel. When trailering cargo that is not fully secured, dynamic load shifts can occur that may be difficult for the driver to control. You could lose control of your vehicle and have an accident.
• When hauling cargo or towing a trailer, do not overload your vehicle or trailer. Overloading can cause a loss of control, poor performance or damage to brakes, axle, engine, transmission, steering, suspension, chassis structure or tires.
• Safety chains must always be used between your vehicle and trailer. Always connect the chains to the frame or hook retainers of the vehicle hitch. Cross the chains under the trailer tongue and allow enough slack for turning corners.
• Vehicles with trailers should not be parked on a grade. When parking, apply the parking brake on the tow vehicle. Put the tow vehicle transmission in PARK. Always, block or chock the trailer wheels.
• GCWR must not be exceeded.
• Total weight must be distributed between the tow vehicle and the trailer such that the following four ratings are not exceeded: 1. GVWR. 2. GTW. 3. GAWR. 4. Tongue weight rating for the trailer hitch utilized. (This requirement may limit the ability to always achieve the 10% to 15% range of tongue weight as a percentage of total trailer weight).

Towing Requirements – Tires

− Do not attempt to tow a trailer while using a compact spare tire. − Proper tire inflation pressures are essential to the safe and satisfactory operation of your vehicle. Refer to “Tires – General Information” in “Starting and Operating” for proper tire inflation procedures. − Check the trailer tires for proper tire inflation pressures before trailer usage. − Check for signs of tire wear or visible tire damage before towing a trailer. Refer to “Tires – General Information” in “Starting and Operating” for the proper inspection procedure. − When replacing tires, refer to “Tires – General Information” in “Starting and Operating” for proper tire replacement procedures. Replacing tires with a higher load carrying capacity will not increase the vehicle’s GVWR and GAWR limits.

Towing Requirements – Trailer Brakes

− Do not interconnect the hydraulic brake system or vacuum system of your vehicle with that of the trailer. This could cause inadequate braking and possible personal injury. − An electronically actuated trailer brake controller is required when towing a trailer with electronically actuated brakes. When towing a trailer equipped with a hydraulic surge actuated brake system, an electronic brake controller is not required. − Trailer brakes are recommended for trailers over 1,000 lbs (454 kg) and required for trailers in excess of 2,000 lbs (907 kg).

CAUTION: If the trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) loaded, it should have its own brakes and they should be of adequate capacity. Failure to do this could lead to accelerated brake lining wear, higher brake pedal effort, and longer stopping distances.

WARNING:
• Do not connect trailer brakes to your vehicle’s hydraulic brake lines. It can overload your brake system and cause it to fail. You might not have brakes when you need them and could have an accident.
• Towing any trailer will increase your stopping distance. When towing you should allow for additional space between your vehicle and the vehicle in front of you. Failure to do so could result in an accident.

 

[rickaren]

Towing Requirements – Trailer Lights and Wiring

Whenever you pull a trailer, regardless of the trailer size, stop lights and turn signals on the trailer are required for motoring safety. The trailer tow package may include a four-pin and seven-pin wiring harness. Use a factory approved trailer harness and connector.

NOTE: Do not cut or splice wiring into the vehicles wiring harness.

The electrical connections are all complete to the vehicle, but you must mate the harness to a trailer connector. Refer to the following illustrations.

Four-Pin Connector Four-Pin Connector

1 — Female Pins. 4 — Park. 2 — Male Pin. 5 — Left Stop/Turn. 3 — Ground. 6 — Right Stop/Turn.

Seven-Pin Connector Seven-Pin Connector

1 — Battery. 5 — Ground. 2 — Backup Lamps. 6 — Left Stop/Turn. 3 — Right Stop/Turn. 7 — Running Lamps. 4 — Electric Brakes.

Towing Tips

Before setting out on a trip, practice turning, stopping and backing up the trailer in an area away from heavy traffic.

Automatic Transmission

The “D” range can be selected when towing. However, if frequent shifting occurs while in this range, the “TOW/ HAUL” button (if equipped) or a lower gear range should be selected.

NOTE: Using the “TOW/HAUL” button (3.7L engine) or “4” range (4.0L engine) while operating the vehicle under heavy operating conditions will improve performance and extend transmission life by reducing excessive shifting and heat build up. This action will also provide better engine braking. The automatic transmission fluid and filter should be changed if you regularly tow a trailer for more than 45 minutes of continuous operation. Refer to “Maintenance Schedule” for the proper maintenance intervals.

TOW/HAUL – If Equipped

To reduce potential for automatic transmission overheating, press the “TOW/HAUL” button when driving in hilly areas or shift the transmission to DRIVE position 2 on more severe grades. Refer to “Automatic Transmission” in “Starting and Operating” for further information.

Electronic Speed Control – If Equipped

− Do not use in hilly terrain or with heavy loads. − When using the speed control, if you experience speed drops greater than 10 mph (16 km/h), disengage until you can get back to cruising speed. − Use speed control in flat terrain and with light loads to maximize fuel efficiency.

Cooling System

To reduce potential for engine and transmission overheating, take the following actions:

− City Driving

When stopped for short periods of time, shift the transmission into NEUTRAL and increase engine idle speed.

− Highway Driving

Reduce speed.

− Air Conditioning

Turn off temporarily.

Vehicle loading
Certification Label As required by National Highway Traffic Safety Administration regulations, your vehicle has a certification label affixed to the driver’s side door or B-Pillar. This label ...

Recreational towing (behind motorhome, etc.)
Two-Wheel Drive Models All Four Wheels On The Ground Recreational towing is allowed ONLY if the driveshaft is removed. Towing with the rear wheels on the ground while the driveshaft is connected ...